• Description:

Interlocking 3d printed Miata wing. Pretty sure this is the most overengineered 3d printed Miata wing in existence. Also I'm pretty sure that it's the only one that's actually posted up for people to use for free. 
Wing Profile:
Eppler420-il
http://airfoiltools.com/airfoil/details?airfoil=e420-il
I have been told that this is quite a draggy airfoil, so you have been warned.

• Assembly:

Ensure that your tolerances are correct and that the ½ rod of your choice (aluminum and carbon fiber come to mind) will slip thru the wing segment without too much effort. If tolerance to fit using violence. Moving one wing section at a time, epoxy around the contact points between the wing segments and connect together, slip the rod thru while the epoxy is still curing to ensure proper alignment. Make sure that wing segments are on the correct section of  the rod incase that epoxy locks it into place.

After assembling the wing sand to your desired smoothness, if you are a lemons racer, run it just as is. If you want it to last longer, sand down smooth and either paint or layer in your choice of fiberglass, carbon fiber, paint, or faux carbon fiber vinyl wrap for all the cool guy points without the cost. 

As for the wing aluminum wing spars? Enjoy finding a shop that is willing to take your tiny CNC project. I'm not shilling S.C.S. unless they pay me first. 

 

Enjoy your way overengineered wing designed by a college student with more CAD skills than time management skills.

 

• Tips for success/Bragging about strength:

VERYIFY that my chassis mount has the correct dimensions for your application. I 100% just winged it (pun intended). Thus you should double check my eyeballing off a 3d model of a Miata I found work for the exact way that the chassis mount actually connects to the car.

Make sure your slicer doesn't randomly decide to screw you over and change from 2 walls to 1 wall with a horrible seam that has 0 bonding between. That mistake costed me a roll of filament and 38 hours of printing time.

DRY FILAMENT!!! I printed with an old roll, and during destructive testing the print shattered. This is PETG shattering not PLA, whacky, right?

During very fun destructive testing I found that each wing segment can withstand 160lbs of continuous load and somewhere around 200-250lbs of distributed impact force. All of that testing was done with the previous revision printed with horribly wet filament, and without the extra strong print settings! 

Also each segment weighs around 360g, which is as light as I could comfortably make it. I would make it lighter if I could, but then it would get very sketchy. 

• 3d printed parts BOM ~65in Miata Wing:

- Assembly Diagram can be found in photos! 1x - WingTypeA 1x - WingTypeA - mirrored 2x - WingTypeB 2x - WingTypeB - mirrored 1x - WingTypeC - cut in half 1x - WingTypeC - cut in half - mirrored 1x - WingTypeD

• My Print Settings:

-0.6mm Nozzle -0.4mm Layer height -104% extrusion mutiplier -nozzle: 240*C/250* C -bed: 85*C/90*C -0 part cooling! -Organic supports w/ 0.3mm seperation for the female sections and support blocker to prevent them from trying to reach up into the part -Random seam alignment -99 walls -0% Infill -0 bottom layers -0 top layers

 

OLD DOCUMENATION: (just ignore it plz)

Just printed the first 20cm section. It can hold my body weight in any orientation that I throw at it. According to a wing calculator, it'll produce 150lbs of downforce at 100mph. If one section alone can hold 140 lbs, then I'm pretty confident in this wing's ability to hold up. I am using 5/8'' carbon fiber hollow spars for it. 
I've been printing with maxed out walls, no upper or bottom layers, no infill, and a 7.5mm wide brim around the bottom. Been printing well for me.
And do ignore the riced out Miata 3d model, that's from a project where I was getting into organic modeling and learning via making a riced out body kit. My car isn't rice, it's a very broken racecar.