Remix of simonetraversi_ Telecaster. I filled in the open body and added all the holes for the components.

Parts 2 and 5 (main body with pickup cavities) have cavities running parallel with the strings for adding carbon rods. When these print it would be a good idea to insert the carbon rods before the roof layer goes on. Remove the rods after 2-3 roof layers. If you do not, there is a good chance the filament will sag and block the holes making it difficult or impossible to get the rods in afterward.

2x10mm x420mm (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09PNT9TBS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Validate your infill on each piece with parts holes. You want to make sure the infill supports the screw holes as they are being printed. I had to vary the infill from 9%-11% on parts. If you do not, the holes will not hold when you put screws in and you will have loose plastic rattling around inside the body.

Put the screws in slowly with a manual screwdriver. With a drill they will get hot and deform or break the plastic as they go in.

Screw holes for the pickguard match a standard 8-hole Fender Pickgrd American Standard Tele Blk (Bwb).
Screw holes for the bridge match a Fender American Professional Tele 3-Saddle Bridge Assembly Electric Guitar Hardware (0992005000).
Jack plate hole is made for a Fender Telecaster Jack Ferrule - Nickel. This is the recessed jack plate mount. I have a thin piece of plastic in the hole specifically for this.

Creality

Ender 3

No

Yes

.8 nozzle

Parts 2 and 5 (main body with pickup cavities) were printed on their sides with the layers running perpendicular to the strings. 5 walls, 30% infill. These two parts were printed with tree supports.

All other parts were printed on their back with 2 walls and 10% infill, no supports.

2, 1kg rolls of PLA were used (mistakes were made).

3 lb 10 oz final parts weight.

JB Weld type epoxy was used to bond pieces together as well as to hold the carbon rods in place.