Just to be clear - This file is JUST the Moon shells you need to import into TInkercad.; If someone wants me to post the actual lamp I made using them, I will - but it's a very specific fitting/opening for the light, so unlikely to be of use to many people.

I did some work on Moonournation's excellent detailed moon Lamp - only prompted by my accidental destruction of a glass lampshade that I wanted to reprint, and thought...Moon Lamp...it is time.

But my Lamp is a fairly specific size and fitting...meaning I needed to make holes and rims in particular places and I only really know Tinkercad...but Tink won't accept Moonournation's whopping million-triangle file. Reducing the file to Tinkercad's meany triangle maximum of just 300K triangles seemed like turning the Mona Lisa into a Simpsons cartoon, so I thought - let's do better!

Courtesy of MeshMixer, I was able to split the shells (a lovely feature that has me coming back to MeshMixer time and time again), and generate TWO separate objects, MoonInner and MoonOuter, and reduce them to 300K triangles each. Tinkercad sets that as a maximum complexity for import - but it doesn't mind how many 300K triangle objects you upload...

How to use the shells;
Upload MoonInner and make it a hollow with the "H" key....then upload "MoonOuter". Remember to select both shapes and centre them on all axes before grouping/merging to get your workable, 600K triangle moon in TInkercad!

Note - it WILL group - eventually...!

Just remember - the shells need to be kept in the same orientation relative to each other - if you rotate one, you'll need to rotate the other exactly the same.

Also since they're both rough spheres, rotation won't necessarily be on precisely the same axis, so after rotating I'd select them both and make sure they are centered on all 3 axes before grouping.

Creality

CR10S PRO

No

No

0.2

100%

Nozzle 255, Bed 80
50mm/s for outside walls, 40mm/s for inside.
I recommend NO support - the top of the model will lose some material as it tries to print it in "thin air", but the sphere WILL close with these settings (see pics for proof!)

The only post processing I've done was to gently run a wire brush around the inside of the globe to remove fine threads and lose material which could melt.