An Ooler (and its predecessor, the Chilipad) is like an electric blanket that can also cool. It works by heating or cooling water in a controller unit that sits under your bed and pushes (heated or chilled) water through pipes in a sleep mat. One of the upgraded features of the Ooler (over the Chilipad) is that it includes UV sterilisation of the water it uses. Unfortunately, I managed to discover some kind of super slime that is entirely UV resistant… and this slime completely blocked the pipes in both the controller unit and the sleeping mat. Chilli Technologies (the vendor) was really good about honouring their warranty, but (understandably) preferred to ship me a replacement over paying for the international return shipping that would have been required for them to service the unit… and throwing the old one away didn't seem right to me. These adapters let me plug in a normal garden hose to flush the slime out.

NOTE:
Your garden hose gives you access to water under pressure, and almost certainly enough pressure to destroy both your controller and your sleeping mat (or at least blow a gasket or a pipe that'll cause your Ooler to ever after leak everywhere). If you use these adapters, you are probably voiding your warranty. I did this, and it worked for me, but I turned the hose on slowly, and only enough to get the slime moving. I offer no guarantees or warranty — use these at your own risk, or don't use them at all. To flush the controller I started with it full of water and kept the top cap closed (so that the only way water I pushed in one pipe could get out was the other pipe). I don't think it matters which of the two mat pipes the hose is connected to, and I think it probably does matter which of the two controller pipes your hose is connected to, since one of them is going to push water past the pump impeller in the right direction, and one is going to push it in the "wrong direction — this is another reason to run the water slowly* (I ran the water in both directions through both the mat and the controller).
For the avoidance of any doubt: If you plug this in then turn your hose on full, then I expect very bad things to happen soon afterward!

ooler_hose_pipes_adapter should clip in to your mat and release with the normal triangular hose release button.
ooler_hose_controller_adapter should clip in to your controller and release by pushing out the clips on the sides with a steel rule or a screwdriver.
The two o_ring files are optional o-rings you could print with flex filament. Better to use o-rings, and at a pinch you can probably get away with using a rubber band, or just pushing everything together and putting up with water splashing everywhere.

SCAD file requirements

(I've included stl files, so getting the SCAD files working with the libraries I've used is needed only if you want to make changes in OpenSCAD.)

Install BOSL2 by following the instructions here.
Download FullApature's ChiliPAD or OOLER Drain Tool for CPC Quick Disconnect DPC Series couplings for the base I used for the controller adapter, and expand it into the same folder as ooler.scad (making ChiliPAD+or+OOLER+Drain+Tool+for+CPC+Quick+Disconnect+DPC+Series+couplings/files/Ooler_Drain_Tool_Original.stl).
Download lampmaker's Garden hose Coupler model for the base I used for the hose coupler, and expand it into the same folder (making Garden_hose_Coupler/Hose_quickcon_01.STL).
… then, with stdlib.scad, polyholes.scad and hanging_hole.scad in the same directory, hopefully, it'll all just work (use OpenSCAD's customizer to switch OpenSCAD between the different part models).

Thanks to FullApature for ChiliPAD or OOLER Drain Tool for CPC Quick Disconnect DPC Series couplings, and to lampmaker for Garden hose Coupler (Thingiverse isn't letting me credit two projects as a source right now, so lampmaker's only getting the credit they deserve here in the description — sorry).

Designed in OpenSCAD using the excellent BOSL2 library (see the installation instructions there).
polyholes.scad and hanging_hole.scad shamelessly stolen from the excellent NopSCADlib library.

Prusa

I3 MK3S

No

No

0.2

15

Print in the orientation of the parts. Everything should print cleanly without supports, but make sure that your slicer gives you good bridges — see the screen captures for at least one way to increase your chances of a successful print (the block modifier reduced one layer to a single perimeter, so that the bridges could attach to the layer below instead of hanging out in fresh air).