Wanted a compact SESTOS D1S-VR-220 PID controller and Ink Bird SR-25 DA Solid State Relay Module enclosure, with a switch, fusebox and possibility to monitor SSR On-light.
So here it is.

https://youtu.be/IEsE7TQns0M
https://youtu.be/RfjG2W9W8D4

• Fuse holder dimensions are: body_length 35mm; front_diameter 14,9mm; front length 5,7mm; thread diameter 12,40mm.
  -Switch dimensions are: 11mm / 30mm.
  -Also used four M3x6 countersunk screws for fixing back to front. They screw int directly into the plastic (no need for nuts);
• one M3x6 countersunk screw and one M3 nut for tightening the PID controller in place (from the side);
  -one M3x10 countersunk screw and one M3 nut for tightening the SSR inside the housing.

The following order of assembly worked for me:

• attach all the wires to SSR (use thin ones for control clamps)
• move the SSR in (see that SSR LED is right below its opening on top) and secure it with the screw and nut (tighten the screw through the hole on the top)
• solder wire to the side contact of the fuse housing and install the fuse from the front. Use
  long tweezers to screw on the nut;
• install the switch into the back part (might need a touch with a flat file to fit it in) depending on your print tolerance and pass in all the wires through the holes in the back part. The oval hole I used for the mains power, the round for the heater and the key-like hole for the thermo-pair (mine was already with contacts pressed on hence the shape of the hole to get in one contact after other);
• put a nut from inside of the side wall and screw in the M3x6 screw slightly from outside so the nut just doesn't fall out. Press in the PID controller from the front (the front opening might need a touch with a flat file to fit it in);
• solder the wire to the end contact of the fuse holder.
• connect wires to the PID controller and the solder the other ends to the switch.
  Place the back part into the front part and secure it with remaining four M3x6 screws.

If you found my design useful or inspiring and would like to buy me a cup of espresso you are welcome to tip me:

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Thank you!

Raise3D N2 Plus

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0.23

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Both parts naturally print best when placed on the face side so there is no need for much supports. My slicer program made no supports at all but yours might want to make touch-bed supports when printing the fuse-holder attachment area.