NOTICE

The PPT-Pan6B stl file has been updated to correct the base where it mounts to a servo. If you printed a bad PPT-Pan6B, you probably noticed it didn't seat well, if at all, on the servo, as the recessed groove was not present. It is possible to cut the groove out, manually, after printing, but the servo arm may not seat deeply enough in the part. It is best to print the updated version. Sorry for any inconvenience!
Side note: PPT-Pan6A is correct and did not need an update.

Introduction

The Picacho Micro Pan-Tilt camera mechanism is named after Picacho Peak in Arizona, which is near where I often fly. This is a simple, lightweight, versatile design, inspired by a similar design by Painless360 on YouTube. This version is made to accommodate "micro" FPV cameras measuring 19mm across. It is designed for use with 12g servos measuring approximately 23x11.5x24mm. I use it with EMAX ES08MA II or ES08MD II servos, but it should work with similar sized servos. However, the channels for the servo arms were made to fit these particular servos, so some trimming of the servo arms may be required for other servos that may have larger servo arms.

Contents

There are a number of STL files included in here. Note that files named with PPT refer to Picacho Pan & Tilt, whereas files named with PP refer to Picacho Pan (so, pan-only, no tilt). The pan-tilt mechanism consists of PPT-Tilt6.stl, and either PPT-Pan6A.stl or PPT-Pan6B.stl. The number 6 refers to the version of this design, and the A and B version that you want will depend on where your servo centers. My servos never centered precisely, and every servo I have tried centers a bit offset either CW or CCW when looking down at it from above. Figure out which way your servo swings and choose accordingly . Version A is offset a bit CCW, whereas version B sits CW. Choose which one is closest to minimize any center adjustment you may need to make later in your flight controller.

Also included are mounts for the pan servo that you can print and use, specifically for the full-size SkyHunter, or the DartXL. The mount is in two pieces, a top and bottom, and they seat through a hole that you cut into your airframe, sandwiching the foam between the two parts, which you will need to secure with two small screws (servo mounting screws work well). I do not provide screws, and you may need to drill out the holes a bit, depending on what you use.

There is a distinction between the SkyHunter and DartXL mounts, as the SkyHunter mount is designed for use with the pan + tilt parts mentioned above, whereas the DartXL mount is for a pan-only part (see below). The only differences between the SkyHunter and DartXL mounts, are the depth of the foam, and the height of the servo mount. It's possible that the SkyHunter mount would work with the DartXL, but I haven't tried it. I may provide a pan+tilt mount specifically for the DartXL at a later date. Of course, if you have your own method of mounting the pan servo, you can use that, instead.

Finally, there are two pan-only camera platforms (for 19mm micro cameras), one for a single camera (which you could mount forward or rear facing), and one for two cameras, one facing forward, and one facing rearward.

One last piece is a cutting template. You can print this to use as a template for cutting the hole into your airframe to accommodate the mount.

Printing

I am a newbie to 3D printing, so am no expert, but I've had great success with these parts, printing them with eSun PLA+ filament on an Ender-3 V2 Neo printer. I tried to design the parts such that no support material is needed, especially since adhesion with the PLA+ filament I use is so good that it is a pain to clean up support material, but you may benefit from using supports, and possibly a brim to avoid corners turning up on a thick base. Your results may vary.

It is highly recommended that you center your servo with the servo arm on it before you choose which PPT pan part to print so you can determine which way off-center it sits to make your selection of which part to print. Unfortunately, I do not have an A & B version of the tilt mechanism, or for the pan-only parts.

Assembly

Once assembled onto an airplane, this mechanism is a bit of a pain to remove, as you have to completely disassemble it. Hopefully, once it is installed, you'll never want to remove it. :)

First, you can use the cutting template as an aid to cutting the hole into your airframe for the pan servo mount, once you determine where you want to mount it. If using pan AND tilt, it is preferable to mount the unit as far forward as is practical to allow the camera some visibility below the airframe when it is tilted downward.

Once you have the rectangular hole cut out, you can use the top piece of the mount to mark out where you need to drill or cut out holes to accommodate the mounting stems. Once you have those holes cut/drilled, you can insert the top piece through the opening for a trial fit and trim if needed before attaching the bottom piece.

When you're happy with the fit, insert the bottom piece up from below through the channel, oriented with the small slot toward the front of the airframe. This small slot is where the wires for the tilt servo (if you are including tilt) and the camera wires will be threaded into the fuselage. Secure the pieces together using two small (long-ish, preferably self-tapping) screws.

You should now have a seat for your pan servo to mount. Drop in a servo (this servo wire will go through the servo cavity, not the small slot) with the gearbox toward the front of the airframe. Or, if you are using just pan and no tilt, the gearbox can go toward the rear (aft) at your discretion. Secure the servo with two screws that come with the servo.

Locate a servo arm that fits in the pan plate (whether you are using pan + tilt or just pan) and trial-fit it to make sure it fits in nice and snug. It is possible you may need to use a 3/16" drill bit to widen the hole to allow the servo arm to seat down inside the groove. Once the arm is seated in the part, center your pan servo (I use a servo driver set to 1500us) and then press the assembly onto the servo and screw it in place.

If you are using a pan-only part, then skip down to the step where you mount the camera. Otherwise, the tilt plate is next. Again, you will need to select the servo arm and make sure it seats snugly in the groove (have that 3/16" drill bit handy). Unfortunately, I do not have an A & B version of the tilt plate to accommodate any CW/CCW offset from center, so hopefully your servo centers in line with the groove in the plate. This time, remove the servo arm from its seat before installing the tilt plate.

Before mounting the tilt servo in the pan plate, press the tilt arm over the pivot/hinge point. This may be a tight fit. If so, then press it down and swivel the arm multiple times to work it down in until it rotates more freely. Once you are happy with it, proceed to the next step.

Now it is time to mount the tilt servo. This servo lays on its side and should fit into the pan plate in only one orientation. Secure it to the mount using two screws that came with the servo; this is easiest if you tilt it up to gain access to the screw holes. You can then thread the servo wire through the slot at this time, if desired.

With the camera removed, there is enough flex in the part to get the tilt arm in place. Put the side with the servo arm groove over the servo gear, and flex the part just enough to get it to slip over the hinge/pivot pin on the opposite side. It may be easiest to do this with the camera end pointing straight up. Once it is on, center your tilt servo (again, I use a servo driver) then align the tilt to be as close to level as it can be, and press the servo arm into the groove and onto the servo gear, and secure it with its screw.

Now all that is left is to install the camera. Simply select two screws of appropriate length that hopefully came with your camera, put the camera in place, and secure it with the screws. The wires from the back of the camera should drape over the back wall behind it, so ensure that the connector is oriented at the top. The wires can then be threaded down through the small slot. Unfortunately, there is nothing to prevent your camera from pivoting on the screws, so it is a good idea to screw them down tight, and maybe add a bit of adhesive to lock them down. You may want to wait to do this until after you adjust your camera position to align with your horizon indicator if using a flight controller.

Getting the camera connected to your VTX and/or flight controller is up to you, but you should now have all the wiring threaded into the airframe.

Enjoy!

Creality

Ender-3 V2 Neo

No

Doesn't Matter

0.20mm

25%

The filament I use works best at 208 degrees for the first layer, and 203 degrees for the remainder, despite the recommended 205-225 degree range. Also, I'm not entirely certain that these are all set to 0.20mm resolution, as some may be 0.16mm - I have not been very systematic about keeping track.