I designed this Enclosure for the Robo 3D R1/R1+ printer. However, the pieces could be used to create an enclosure the fit other things as well. For instance you could create an open cube using 2 of the 2PlaneSupports on the bottom the way the top is done.

Anyone printing something large or thin will have experiences a fair amount of warping or curling printing with an open bed. I had solved this initially by cutting up a cardboard box - worked great, but looks like crap. Here is my first try at coming up with something a little more slick to maintain an even printing environment.

If you decide to use this enclosure, you may want to check out my top mounted spool holder since the factory spool arm will interfere with the enclosure: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2758998

Please let me know if you have questions or want additional instructions/diagrams. I'm including the sketchup file if you need to modify for different plexiglass thickness.

• Printer-side: Edges, connectors, enclosure side facing or adjacent to printer
• Far-side: Edges, connections, or enclosure side facing away or furthest from printer

• 3.3m Plexiglass
• Run of the mill mid-cure epoxy
• 1/2" x 5/16" Rubber Foam self stick weatherseal
• 12mm x 3mm disc magnets (I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU83GIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

The plexiglass I used was 3.3mm. I happen to have a lot of it on hand which was pulled out of wall displays from a building that was being demolished. But if it has to be bought, it's pretty cheap due to it's thickness.

Decide on how far you want the enclosure to protrude from the printer. I basically used the smallest measurement that would give clearance for the build bed. However if you have a camera you may need additional space. Print a 2PlaneSupport piece and a 3PlaneCorner piece before starting.

my width = 245mm

1. Score and snap your material to the width you've selected.
2. Slide one corner into the 3PlaneCorner and stick the 2PlaneSupport on the bottom. You want to have this on before marking cut points
3. Place one piece against the side of your printer so the edge lines up with the top of the printer
4. Use a permanent marker to mark each of the angles of the printer and then use a straight edge to connect the dots to define your cutmark
5. Mark the top at the height you would like. I would use at least a cm or two above the opening edge
6. Place the unmarked material on top and copy the line (if you are comfortable cutting 2 pieces at once this is unnecessary)
7. Score and snap the top line
8. Use a jigsaw or bandsaw or whatever you have to cut the curves
9. Use a grinding bit on a drill or other rotary tool to clean up the edges

I ended up taping my two sides together and cutting / finishing at the same time. This insured that came out the same and saved me some time, but also when I went to fast and screwed up, put identical cracks in each... woops. So learn from me and take more care!

The 2PlaneSupport pieces need to be sized based on the width of your side panels. After finished both panels, I pushed the corners on and measured the distance between the bottom and printed out 2 supports scaled to that distance (insure to turn off uniform scaling in your slicer). Measure the top the same way, but divide the distance in half and print out for scaled to that size

The width of this is flexible, I used 30 cm. The height should be ~14.8mm more than the side panel. When inserting into the 3PlanCorner pieces, insure the corners go all the way in, the other panels will but up against the far side panel. When I assembled my enclosure, I glued everything at once and one of my corners slipped a little while I was messing around. If I re-do it I would glue the corners of this panel and let cure first.

I cut these panels after already assembling and glueing the rest of the enclosure (except the printer-side corners). This made it easy to cut the width, slide it in and mark the other dimension as it lined up with the side panels. The Width will be 14.8mm less then the Far Side Panel.

Insure you assemble everything without glueing first and test against the side of your printer. I ended up grinding a little to get the fit the way I wanted before making everything permanent.

I used minimal epoxy, just hitting the edges a little as I pushed into the corners and support pieces. Also hit up the pegs that connect the supports to the corners. I probably used too much, would use less if I did it again.

Once everything is together, Insert your magnets into the corners (3x) and the middle connection (make sure they all face the same way for the middle connector). Put magnets into CaseMagHolder4 and let it snap into place on the inside of the case. I just stuck some masking take on it to hold it in place. It only has to keep it from falling when the case is removed. Do the same for the corners.

Once the magnets are in place and the case is held against the printer, mark the boundaries of the printed corners that connect with masking tape so you have a guide when cutting and attaching the weather stripping (see picture). Use a razor blade to slice the weather stripping on the seam where the cover meets the base so they can still be separated in the future.

Push the enclosure flush with your printer . The first time I had to push the enclosure into the rubber foam a little so all corners would connect and the magnets held. But now the indentations are semi permanent and it just snaps into place.