Paint shaker for miniatures. - 3D Baskı Modeli

Paint shaker for miniatures.

AptDrum99

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Yayınlandı:2026-04-24 11:15:05

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Paint shaker for miniatures. It's designed to fit Vallejo and citadel botles.

--UPDATED--
NEW PRINTING PROFILE
(PORTABLE AND RECHARGEABLE)

TWO ADDITIONAL PRINTING PROFILES HAVE BEEN ADDED:

1. Base adapted for older wired model, for conversion to a rechargeable battery.

2. Complete portable rechargeable model, including all parts.

Components used:

MH-CD42 charging module (TP-4056 can be used, but it is less reliable and has a 0.8V lower output)

Bulk DC-DC converter (boost) (converts the 5V output of the charging module to the desired voltage, in this case, from the 5V of the MH-CD42 to 6.5V)

Female USB-C cable (powers the charging controller)

Speed/voltage regulator or PWM controller

Momentary push button (1 press turns the circuit on, 2 presses turn it off)

One or two 18650 batteries. If using only one, ensure its amperage is sufficient. Choose the type of 18650 battery you want: with a pre-installed cable (best option), with a nickel strip, or without any soldering (you'll need a good metal flux).

Below is the old, wired version post. For the new battery-powered version, you will still need the basic components shown below, such as the rods, bearings, screws and nuts, motor, and speed controller.

NOTICE: In my photos, you can see that I have two larger batteries (21700) installed, but the model uploaded to MakerWorld is adapted for 18650 batteries.

If you buy an MH-CD42 charge controller from AliExpress or a similar site, there are several models that are visually indistinguishable and have inaccurate blueprints. Some turn on the circuit directly when the motor is activated (they detect power consumption), others do nothing and you have to turn it on manually with the button. Other clones activate the power output when you plug it in to charge and keep the circuit on, so make sure your speed controller is at its lowest setting or turned off before connecting the USB cable to charge it. In all cases, a push button must be installed.

THE ACTUAL REAL PHOTOS OF THE PORTABLE VERSION ARE OF THE PRINT PROFILE WITH THE BASE ADAPTED TO THE OLD VERSION OF THE PAINT MIXER.

Choose the profile with just the base to upgrade the old wired version to battery-powered (requires drilling 6 holes).

The other profile has the complete new version, which is smaller in size.

((The sound mostly comes from the two stirring balls inside the paint bottle. The paint holder has two versions, one with two hooks for the rubber. The stirrer is designed so that the moving support doesn't hit the columns, and the movement is relatively smooth. I haven't added no type of hook or support for the table ; I simply attach it with two small pieces of thick, rubbery double-sided tape on the base. When the work is done, rotate the device to separate it from the table , and the tape peels off easily, leaving no residue.))

Below is the old, wired version. For the new battery-powered version, you will still need the basic components shown below, such as the rods, bearings, screws and nuts, motor, and speed controller.

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:::::::::UPDATE:::::::::

The support mounting system has been updated. It now uses a dovetail joint and is easily interchangeable. No more glue.
A wider support for Citadel-type bottles is included.
Two hooks for rubber band added.
The .f3d and .3mf files have been updated.
A blank base support template has been added so users can customize it for their specific can type.

(Updated the .f3d file, the .3mf file, and the print profile)

I haven't used any kind of anchor to the table, just a small piece of double-sided tape that I remove when I finish using the mixer:

To mount the bearings, join 2 bearings with a 15mm screw and 2 nuts, as shown in the image below (2 sets are required).

A photo of the connecting rod has been added, as some people have asked me about the bearings on both ends. It uses the same system on both sides (a combination of screw-bearing-nut-bearing-nut).

It uses a simple rubber band to hold the bottles. The interchangeable bottle support is also held in place with the same rubber.

I use a 9V, 1A power supply, but since it has a PWM controller, a 5V to 12V power supply can be used.

The 12V motor is a geared motor with 1360 RPM, but an 800 RPM motor would be sufficient.

The screws are M4 round-head (flat below), in lengths of 10, 14, 20, and 25mm. (Some 4mm washers are optional.)

The rods are made of stainless steel with an outer diameter of 4mm.

The voltage regulator has a range of 4.5-35V and 0-5A.

The bearings are 4x11x4mm.

Needs some wires for mount all.

Needs grease (preferable) or WD40 type lubricant (not degreaser) for the rods.

The movable print piece where the metal rods are inserted must be printed as included in the .3mf, with the holes facing upwards so that they come out perfectly and slide well.

The complete list with component links starts here:

Screws and nuts: