Summary

An effector and fan shroud mount for the E3D Hemera for delta printers.

This direct drive effector works quite well with well designed delta printers like the Ultibots D300VS or the various SeeMeCNC printers that use the SeeMeCNC machined aluminum barbells.

Update:

Added a new fan duct that has a much more optimized air flow. Print the Hemera Claws Fan Duct.stl file, not the other fan manifold file. This Claws manifold is loosely based on Hangtight's Hemera fan duct, but is made from the ground up in Fusion 360.

Older Updates:

Added a universal mount. This has 3 holes placed around the perimeter for heatserts. Use these to mount an adapter for other deltas. See drawing for relevant dimensions.

Added 35mm face mount ball stud and Traxxis 40mm mount. I have not tested these.

Printing

Print the effector with the top facing the bed. Supports are built into the models. The fan shroud should be printed with the blower mouth facing up. Trim off the bands tying the barbell studs together and remove the two pieces that support the shelf at the rear.

Some good print settings for PrusaSlicer:

• 0.2 Layer Height
• 4 Walls
• 5 Top and Bottom layers
• 40% infill - Triangle
• Detect Thin Walls : Off
• Bridge Angle: 0 (Auto - verify the bridges are in the direction where they are shortest)
• I like to print with 0.6mm extrusion width with a 0.4mm nozzle for more strength. 0.4 or 0.48mm extrusion width should be ok too.

Print the Effector and especially the Fan Manifold with a higher temperature filament. PLA and PETG can droop with the heat. I recommend SnoLabs PC+ which is easily printable without enclosure. Esun ABS+ would be another good choice.

Parts

To assemble the effector mount you will need the following parts and hardware:

• 1 E3D Hemera Direct Drive Extruder
• 1 5015 blower - Delta BFB0524HH for 24V, Sunon MF50151V1-B00U-A99 for 12V work well. Mouser.com carries both.
• 3 SeeMeCNC Barbells](https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/parts-accessories) Use the metal barbells. The plastic ones are too flexy.
• 10 M3x12m Screws (2 for Front to Hemera, 6 for barbells, 2 for fan bracket mount
• 2 M3x20mm Screws (Fan to fan shroud)
• 2 M3X6mm Screws (Rear to Hemera, Fan shroud to Hemera x2,)
• 9 M3 x 4mm x 5mm Heatserts - the cheap ones on Amazon or AliExpress, not the nice McMaster heatserts. M3 x 5mm x 5mm are too big

Optional tie screws to strengthen the mount.

• 1 M3x50mm Screw
• 1 M3x12mm Screw

• 2 M3 Heatserts

• 1 60mm (or similar length) M3 Screw for the whip mast. Can also substitute a 3mm rod.
• ~1M Braided wrap around sleeving. This is much easier than spiral wraps.

All M3 hardware can be button head or socket head.

Assembly

You will need to make a trivial modification to the Hemera extruder/stepper assembly to rotate the face so the rear wires exit in a way that doesn't interfere with the delta arms. To do this, merely unscrew the 4 phillips screws on the back of the Hemera Stepper. Using a spatula, pry the face off (it should come easy). Slide the face off and rotate it 90 degrees clockwise and reassemble.

Insert M3 heatserts into the 6 barbell mounting studs. I found it easiest to use a 40mm or so long screw inserted through the hole from the top. Screw a heatsert onto the screw, heat with a lighter and pull the heatsert into place.
Heatserts also go in the mast mount on the top, the fan mount hole on the effector and the fan mount hole on the fan shroud. Insert a heatsert in the hole at the bottom of the front face, flush against the bottom. It is used both for the stiffening screw and to attach the optional front facade.

Optional but recommended: I have provided holes and relief for heatserts to stiffen the front and rear arms which mount to the Hemera. Since the layer lines are horizontal, these arms could be weaker than necessary. Screws thru their length stiffens them up. On the front 50mm m3 screw screws into a heatsert at the bottom of the arm. On the rear, 2 12mm screws come in from the bottom to heatserts inserted on the top.

Attach the stepper motor connector to the stepper, the thermistor with it's cable and the heater cartridge. Route those wires up behind the front brace and through the effector top. The Hemera fan wires also route up similarly. The part cooling fan wires run along the bottom of the Hemera and up this chase.

Carefully fit the Hemera into the Effector, taking up slack in the wires. Attach the Hemera with two M3x12 screws on the front and a single M3x8 screw on the back.

Attach the barbells. They should seat against the angled face. If not, you may need to file the spigots to allow the barbells to seat properly.

Insert a single M3 square nut into the bottom rear slot of the Hemera stepper. Attach the blower with an M3x8 screw on the side and an M3x12 screw on the bottom.

A long M3 screw or rod can be affixed to the hole in the top of the effector to act as a whip mast. Wrap the wires with cable wrap and zip tie them to the mast with a couple zip ties.
with.

Optional: Print out the Hemera Logo pieces and CA glue them into the insets. Use the regular logo for the main effector, or the thick ones for the facade. I printed the main one in color changing PLA.

Print Settings with the Effector

You will want to tune your print settings. I have found the following has minimal ringing yet reasonably fast print speed:

M201 X850 Y850 Z850 E1000 ; Accelerations (mm/s^2)
M203 X20000 Y20000 Z20000 E3600 ; Maximum speeds (mm/min) -
M566 X370 Y370 Z370 E300 ; Maximum instant speed changes mm/minute

M566 values may be a little low. need more testing.

These values were tuned by using Kisslicer's wizard.
TBD: M593 Dynamic Acceleration Adjustment. Preliminary results were no improvement.