I never use the CapLock key, but I do use the "Super" key (more commonly known as the "Windows" key, but I don't run Windows, so I use the Linux terminology), so I've reprogrammed my Kinesis Advantage to use the CapsLock key as the Super key, so when I ran across rsheldiii 's parametric keycaps (awesome work), I had to have a go at it.

I'm also a fan of the Commodore 8-bit computers, especially the VIC-20, C64, and C128. Found a font by Devin Cook that includes various Commodore themed glyphs. Here is a link directly to the ZIP that should always work

The Kinesis uses OEM profile keys. The CapsLock is 1.25u wide.

One file is for a properly curved key top, standard OEM profile with the Commodore logo on top.

The "FLATTOP_silly" file is "silly" because I added "READY." and a cursor to the front face. It was flattened on top because I use PrusaSlicer and it's "ironing" feature to get super-smooth top surfaces. This required some modifications to the OpenSCAD code to provide deeper "cutting tools" for the legends to deal with the way I carved the top flat and then carved into the front of the key (if you're using the OpenSCAD code, front_legend() works just like legend() but puts it on the front face of the key instead of the top).

Hope some of you enjoy it!

Creality

Ender 3

No

No

160

100

For "FLATTOP", to get the flat top at the top of the print, you will need to put in some work:

• Tell PrusaSlicer to put the top face on the build plate (yes, that is upside down, so...)
• Rotate the keycap exactly 180 degrees around X or Y
• Now you're going to need supports, but you don't want them filling up the keycap or the cross where the MX stem fits, so...
• • Paint on "Enforce supports" on the edges of the keycap and the bottom of the stem.
• • Paint on "Block supports" on the entire bottom surface of the keycap top (you'll be underneath the keycap, and you're painting the entire "floor" of that well, especially inside the stem)
• During cleanup, don't worry about trying to preserve the thin horizontal stips that go from the keycap edges to the stem. You don't need them when you're done.

Personally, I printed this in white plastic, then used ultra-fine tip red and blue Sharpies to color in the logo. I left the top surface white so the logo pops, but I used a normal black Sharpie to color the sides (using needle-nose pliers to hold it by the stem for this side work). It makes the key fit in better with the rest of my black keys, and for the "silly" variant it also makes the "READY." stand out as white text on black.