I printed the 6x12 camera found here

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2852935

but had some problems with it...mainly the advance axis either broke or came loose on occassion when advancing (or rewinding) the film.

Also there was no utillity slot to mount a flash, viewfinder or other tool.

So I made a new top and new, more solid, advance mechanism. A viewfinder is now also available.

Next I wanted an open back which makes it easier to insert film. Also it will allow me, in a later stage, to create a cone with focussing options, which require me to calibrate the focussing ring (by marking the focus distance) by focussing on e.g. a piece of glass. So I created a new body and a back.

the 90 label I made to add some thinckness on the original C-PAN cone, as I found it was very thin on top and bottom and light could come in. I simply glued them on the cone, top and bottom.

make sure also to read the misc notes

note: from the original design you need to print the cone and mouning nuts for the top. I took the liberty to add them for now
you will also need 4 1/4 20 (or M6) bolts and nuts to attach the lens cone

Note 2: the parts are interchangable with the original C-PAN. E.g. you can print only the top/new advance and use it on your existing C-PAN

Wanhao

Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus

200

40 or higher

To print the top, tilt it 45-60 degrees, with the top side facing down and utility slots up. Then print with normal supports, I found tree supports didn't work as well. Also use either brim or raft to make sure the print remains fixed to the plate.
Notice the notch in the advance knob. Make sure it falls into the opening of the upper ring, then turn 180 degrees and let in it fall in the opening of the lower ring. There is a very minor chance it comes out again so if you want to be sure, drill a 1.8mm hole opposite of the notch. When the knob was installed, insert a small piece of filament (give it a sharp point) in it and glue it in place.

To print the body, again tilt 45 degrees, back facing down and bottom down. Best use normal supports and raft/brim. The cone is mounted with M6 bolts and nuts. Use some hot-glue to fix the nuts in position and avoid they will start rotating when mounting the cone. Make sure not to use too much, or the cone won't fit anymore.

To print the back, also tilt 45 degrees, flat side facing down, normal supports and raft strongly recommended.

The viewfinder needs to be printed with normal supports, front facing down.

For all prints preferably use black filament, I found that certainly white filament allows light to come through.

Although 120 film's back paper is usually dark enough and won't let light through, I however recommend to glue a piece of red transparent sheet against the hole in the back which shows the numbering. Note that in order to avoid overlapping images, only use the even numers.