Two-part construction that replaces the scope of the Elite 2.0 Wild Edition Prospect QS-4 with a standard Nerf attachment rail. As well as the two files here, you'll also need to print one of scope7tango's rail detents, found here.

Hardware:

• 1x Nerf shell screw; designed to accommodate the longer 11mm screw typically used on most shells, also works with the shorter 9mm screws that are used on rail sections of Nerf shells.

Note:

The photos show an older version of the print that required two Nerf shell screws. The files here are a newer version that only require one screw.

Installing:

Once you're inside the Prospect (see below), insert the rail detent into the rail piece, and then slide the rail piece and the front mount into the respective spaces where the scope used to mount. Close up the shell and then insert and thread the screw into the two parts to secure them together.

See here for the top rail for the Sidestrike/Talonstrike.

Creality

Ender 3

Doesn't Matter

Yes

Any

<20%

The main rail piece requires supports if printed in its current orientation. If your printer is good at bridging you can flip it upside-down and print without supports, but this may end up with a rougher surface finish on the top side of the rail.

The front mounting piece is symmetrical and will work in the blaster regardless of which orientation it is inserted in.

Like many Elite 2.0 blasters, the Prospect has clips that hold it together as well as screws, but thankfully no solvent welds. There are two clips on either side of the grip, and a third right under the scope. Popping the grip clips is relatively trivial, but the scope one can be tricky.

If you don't plan on ever using the scope again, it may be easier to just cut the scope off entirely to give yourself better access to the clip under it. If you want to keep the scope without destroying it, you can pop the clip with a bit of trial and error by levering the shell apart in the spots around where the scope mounts.

Cutting the clips off does not impact the blaster's ability to stay shut; there is a friction post on the grip that holds it together quite well, and the two screws in the top half of the shell keep the top closed just fine. Cutting the clips off makes getting back inside the shell much easier should you need to.