I designed this case to hold the BigTreeTech TFT35 V2 display on my Ender 3 Pro since this display is not sized to fit into the stock display holder. I had ordered an SKR Mini E3 control board that came in a package with this display, unfortunately I saw pictures of the TFT35 V3 and thought that it was the V2 I ordered. I didn't open this display up until after I had installed the SKR board so rather than take the board out again, I decided to design a case that would hold the display and mount to my Ender 3 Pro.

NOTE: THE BACK PLATES ARE SHOWN ABOVE BEING PRINTED WITH THE FLAT SIDES UP. THEY ARE MEANT TO BE PRINTED WITH THIS SIDE AGAINST THE BED. I ASSUME THIS IS DUE TO THE WAY INVENTOR PRODUCED THE .STL FILES. JUST FLIP THEM IN CURA IF NEEDED SO YOU DO NOT NEED TONS OF SUPPORTS!

The printed part files are:

BTT TFT35 V2 REV 1 Face Plate - This is the front half of the display case. The V2 display is secured to this plate and there is a hole that allows access to the reset button from outside the case. There is also a slot in the side which allows access to the SD card slot and 4 posts with holes for securing the Back Plate to this Front Plate. The holes were sized to accept either (4) M3 x 8mm or 10mm machine screws or (4) #6 UNC or UNF machine screws 1/2" long. I was able to thread the screws in without tapping the holes, but decided to tap the last 2 holes since I had a tap available. I would recommend this if you have a tap on hand, as this will make it much easier to thread the screws in.

BTT TFT35 V2 REV 1 Back Plate - This is the original back half of the display case. I designed this with a wiring access hole which should be plenty big enough for multiple cables if you decide to make use of some of the many expansion ports provided on this display board. I also added some ventilation although I do not really feel it was all that necessary, but I would rather have it since it doesn't hurt anything either. There are (4) mounting holes for the M5 x 8mm machine screws used to secure the display case to the mounting bracket as well as (4) M3 or #6 U.S. holes in the corners to secure the Back Plate to the Front Plate.

BTT TFT35 V2 REV 2 Back Plate - OPTIONAL - This is a revised design of the original Back Plate, which I designed as an option for people who do not have the short M3 x 6 machine screws needed to secure this BTT V2 display to the Front Plate. This Back Plate was designed with (4) posts which have locator pins on top. Rather than using screws to secure the V2 display to the Front Plate, you can set the V2 display onto these locator pins, plug in your wiring, then attach the Front Plate to the Back Plate and secure the 2 pieces together with the (4) M3 x 8mm or 10mm (or #6 x 1/2") machine screws. This eliminates the need for the 4 additional M3 screws needed with the REV 1 Back Plate option.

BTT TFT35 V2 Brackets (LEFT-SIDE or RIGHT-SIDE) - Depending on which side of your machine you want to mount your display on, you can choose either the Left or Right side bracket. This bracket secures to the Back Plate with (4) M5 x 8mm screws, and then to the 4040 aluminum extrusion on either side of the Ender 3 base using (2) M4 x 10mm machine screws and (2) M4 spring nuts.

OTHER PARTS NEEDED:
(4) - M3 X 5mm or 6mm machine screws to secure display (UNLESS USING REV2 Back)
(4) - M3 X 8mm or 10mm machine screws OR (4) #6 x 1/2" UNF or UNC screws.
(4) - M5 x 8mm machine screws
(4) - M4 x 10mm machine screws
(2) - M4 spring nuts

INSTALLATION METHOD 1 - (If using the REV 1 Back Plate...)

1. Print the Front Plate, REV 1 Back Plate, Bracket of your choice.

2. Secure the V2 display to the Front Plate display mounting holes with (4) M3 X 5mm or 6mm machine screws. Center the display if necessary and tighten screws.

3. Secure the REV 1 Back Plate to the Mounting Bracket you chose with (4) M5 x 8mm machine screws. If you have an M5 tap you can tap the mounting bracket holes first, but it was not necessary for me.

4. Pull the cables you will be running to the V2 Display through the wiring access hole on the Back Plate and connect them to your V2 Display.

5. Press the Back Plate onto the Front Plate. I designed a small lip and groove on the Front and Back plates which will fit together. This will help strengthen the joint between the 2 halves as well as help line everything up. Secure the Back Plate to the Front Plate with either (4) M3 x 8mm or 10mm machine screws or (4) #6 x 1/2" UNC or UNF machine screws. You might here a little snap sound as you finish tightening these screws down. This is just the lip and groove fully snapping together. Remember, do not overtighten these screws or you could risk breaking the posts :)

6. Take the full case with mounting bracket attached and insert (2) M4 x 10mm machine screws through the (2) mounting holes in the bottom of the bracket. Place (2) M4 spring nuts onto the M4 screws and insert them into the 4040 aluminum extrusion on the Ender 3. Tighten these bolts down making sure the M4 spring nuts are turned correctly in the aluminum extrusion.

INSTALLATION METHOD 2 (If using REV 2 Back Plate..)

1. Print the Front Plate, REV 2 Back Plate, Bracket of your choice.

2. Secure the REV 2 Back Plate to the Mounting Bracket you chose with (4) M5 x 8mm machine screws. If you have an M5 tap you can tap the mounting bracket holes first, but it was not necessary for me.

3. Pull the cables you will be running to the V2 Display through the wiring access hole on the Back Plate and connect them to your V2 Display.

4. Gently set the V2 Display onto the (4) locating pins found on the top of the (4) posts on the REV 2 Back Plate. Place the Front Plate over the V2 Display and REV 2 Back Plate while gently lining the locating pins up with the mounting holes in the Front Plate.

5. Press the Back Plate onto the Front Plate. I designed a small lip and groove on the Front and Back plates which will fit together. This will help strengthen the joint between the 2 halves as well as help line everything up. Secure the Back Plate to the Front Plate with either (4) M3 x 8mm or 10mm machine screws or (4) #6 x 1/2" UNC or UNF machine screws. You might here a little snap sound as you finish tightening these screws down. This is just the lip and groove fully snapping together. Remember, do not overtighten these screws or you could risk breaking the posts :)

6. Take the full case with mounting bracket attached and insert (2) M4 x 10mm machine screws through the (2) mounting holes in the bottom of the bracket. Place (2) M4 spring nuts onto the M4 screws and insert them into the 4040 aluminum extrusion on the Ender 3. Tighten these bolts down making sure the M4 spring nuts are turned correctly in the aluminum extrusion.

FINAL THOUGHTS:

Hopefully this will help those out there who purchased this display and later realized it would not fit the original Ender 3 display mounting plate!

Please let me know if anyone had trouble with this case. I printed all of my parts with Sunlu PLA+ so I do not know how these parts will turn out for people using other types of filament, though I do not think there should be any troubles.

I am also using the new upgraded Creality Ender 3 4mm borosilicate glass bed, which is AWESOME! The faces of my parts came out looking perfect despite the fact that they were the 1st layer printed. I cannot believe how amazing this new bed has been! The parts literally "pop" right off the bed once the bed cools down!

Creality

Ender 3 Pro

No

Yes

0.2

30% - 50%

I used Cura 4.6.1 to slice these parts. I had my wall count set to 3 and bottom/top set to 4 layers. I use Alternate Extra Wall setting to help mesh infill with walls. Depending on your printer you may need to set your Horizontal Expansion or Hole Horizontal Expansion to account for screw holes that are too tight or loose, but I believe I have them sized to work for most people. I tend to print at 45mm/s to ensure a good print but most of you will know what speeds will work for you. Supports are only needed for the SD card slot in the Front Plate and for the screw holes in the Mounting Brackets. I used an Overhang Angle of 60 with a Zig Zag pattern and 20% Density and the supports popped out easy and clean.