UPDATE 28APR2015: Main/First Hot End Installed and Working - http://3dprinterworks.boards.net/post/1456

UPDATE: Modified the the carriage to make it stronger and better fit. Added Slave carriage for dual simultaneous printing (Work In Progress).

If you have a single head printer or 1-E3D Jtype hot end, you can use just this mount and be up and printing.

Added: Fan Duct for 30mm 12v Fan
Added: Teaser Photo of the Slave Design for printing two identical objects at once on the same print bed.

Hardware you will need...

Clamp the two halves together.
2x 3x45mm
2x 3mm lock nut

Secure the Belt - NOTE: You should attach the right end of the belt X-Axis belt prior to assembling the two halves. Do not over tighten the set screws.
2x 2x12mm

Mount the Cable Chain Guide
2x 3x16mm
2x 3x10mm

Fan Duct
2x 3x12mm Pan or Button
4x 3x 12mm (Attach Fan)

Slave Carriage (still In Development/Testing)
?in x 12mm diameter carbon fiber rod
? Springs
? Screws
y-harness to slave extruder motors

Print The carriage top down - With supports (Ben's default setting in SLIC3R worked fine. Turn the print temp on the ABS down to 238 and leave the bed temp at 110 for the duration of the print. Let the bed completely cool and your part will pop right off. No glue or tape on the glass required.

Print the cable chain holder upright - No supports required, 20 infill, ABS or PLA, the bottom of the chain will rest on the top of the support and you will run the provided plastic bolt from top all the way through to the bottom.

Note: There are two holes on the front of the carriage for the planned part's cooling duct to mount.

The uploaded files are slightly different than the pictures. This is a work in progress.

Hot End Assembly - wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly
Note: Use thermal grease on the barrel threads into the cooling fans. Provides better heat distribution and prevents jamming due to improper cooling.

Carriage Parts to print - www.thingiverse.com/thing:755560
NOTE: I've only completed the single hot end configureation at this time. The description in Thingiverse lists all the hardware that you will need.

Modify Slice Settings: SPEED IS YOUR FRIEND

Retraction: 2mm
Print Speeds: Be careful to no go below 40mm/s Print head like to jam at slow speeds
DON'T leave the filament in the hot end when print is finished - I'm using these to help prevent jam in restart

///////USE AT OWN RISK///////

START G-Code

G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z10 F5000 ; lift nozzle
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
G1 E105 F225 ; load/purge nozzle with 5mm of filament
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length

END G-CODE

M140 S0 ; shut off bed
G1 E-100 ; retract filament by 100mm
M104 S0 ; turn off temperature
G1 X225 Y225 ; X and Y axis Back Right Corner
M84 ; disable motors

///////USE AT OWN RISK///////

Print in ABS 30%infill with supports. (I printed at 245):

The Two main carriage halfs.
The Parts duct if desired.
The E-Chain Rest.

The holes that use 3mm hardware will need drilled out for easier assembly. It's best to mount the half with the motion belts first, then assemble the rest once you have the tension set. The belt channel may require some slight trimming if you don't get a perfectly smooth print.

Electrical
You can reuse the heater from the Creator bot.
Use the E-3D Thermistor (Don't forget to modify Merlin)
Remove the extra creator bot heater and Thermistor.

Important:
Run Auto Tune M303 once the installation is complete and update your PID in the config.h

This is what I ran - M303S190C10 (Tuning for 190 degrees for PLA)
Then write down you new P.I.D. - update it in the firmware and reflash your Ramps 1.4 board.

My New PID was:
P: 32.40
I: 3.80
D: 69.01

In the firmware you will need to reduce the max Z-height by 4in (100mm) and X offset to 10mm. You will also need to fabricate a Z-end stop screw extension or get a longer screw.

For my 12x12x12 printer, My max Z = 205mm (about 8 in) This is of no concern to me since I don't print anything over 4-6in tall.

Load it all up and run a test print.