ENDER 3 V2 SCREEN CASE

This is a remix from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4625496 by Pugwash

I liked the look of the screen case from Pugwash.
But the OCD in me had to fix the right side and frame to cover the metal shield, so I did, and also adjusted some other things ;)

The changes made compared to the original:

Front

1. The bezel width are now the same on the sides.
2. The front bezel now covers the metal bezel on the LCD.
3. Added ridges to keep the cover from moving back slightly when using the knob. It caused some flex that generated plastic noises.

Back

1. Minor changes for more stability on the bottom.
   Note: The original has some mouting holes (i think) in the SD-card slot hole, i think it was made for a smaller cover, I left it as it is and have not made any cover for the opening.

Mount:

1. Added some angles for more stability
2. Merged and doubled the mounting feet for stability. Thicker design to keep the case in place.
3. Added a divider for the angle-hole so the hole will not expand. Just cut it out if you need that specific angle.

Other notes:

• The mounting is tight! Be prepared to use a knife to trim. I recommend trimming the mounting feets if needed, usually on the side where the supports were. Do not trim the back panel, becasue that would alter the fitting in another way.
• The support lines inside the back cover might look incomplete on the bottom right, the speaker is located there and needs that space. Reminder - do not remove the tape on the speaker ;) It is loud.
• The cable connector hole on the original was off by 0.5mm for one of my printers, not due to the design but by how the connector was mounted on the LCD. So I made the hole a bit bigger, but beware that it depends on how the connector was soldered on the LCD. You might need to cut or sand away a little bit.

Hardware:

You will need to use the 2-3 extrusion screws from the old mount.
You do not need anything extra.

Creality

Ender 3 Pro

No

Yes

0.2

20

Printed and used on two Ender 3 V2.

Front is printed with the front/flat side on the plate, without supports.
Back is printed with the flat side on the plate, with supports only needed for the snap-connectors (it works without supports also, but might need to be trimmed after printing)
Mount is printed with supports for the mounting feets - see picture.

• The mounting is tight! Be prepared to use a knife to trim. I recommend trimming the mounting feets if needed, usually on the side where the supports were. Do not trim the back panel, becasue that would alter the fitting in another way.
• The support lines inside the back cover might look incomplete on the bottom right, the speaker is located there and needs that space. Reminder - do not remove the tape on the speaker ;) It is loud.
• The cable connector hole on the original was off by 0.5mm for one of my printers, not due to the design but by how the connector was mounted on the LCD. So I made the hole a bit bigger, but beware that it depends on how the connector was soldered on the LCD. You might need to cut or sand away a little bit.