This is a bracket that mounts on Precision Mathews PM25 to hold Pneumatic Butterfly Impact Wrench.
Concept was taken from Physics Anonymous. Original Linked CAD wouldn't load so I drew this up quick.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lTUmjiJELko
https://hackaday.com/2018/09/03/air-wrench-becomes-a-milling-machine-power-drawbar/

Uses 1/4-20 UNC hardware, I used some bolts and nylocks for mounting.

Brazing/Welding/Epoxy and some hand tools or lathe work can help prepare the necessary socket adapter.
Hardware Links:

1. Neiko 30088A 3/8" Drive Butterfly Impact Wrench, 75 Foot/Pound
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HCROFK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

2. NEIKO 30249A 5 Piece Impact Socket Adapter Set, Standard SAE
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G3VKPAE?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
3. Propane Torch ( I already had the propane torch out, so brazing was easier than mixing epoxy.)
   BERNZOMATIC Worthington 336737 WT2301 or similar
   3.1 Braze - Harris Safety-Silv 56% 1/16 Silver Solder Brazing Alloy 1 Troy Ounce, 75310 5631
   3.2 Flux - Harris SSWF1/4 Stay Silv Brazing Flux, 1/4 lb. Jar, White
   3.b Welder (Optional)
   3.c Two Part Epoxy ( Probably what most normal people would consider)
4. Hack Saw & Hand file or Bench Grinder
5. Lathe (Handy but not essential)

Printing the Bracket -
Use heavy wall thickness to build up rigidity, infill should be enough to support part during printing 18-20%, but the shell thickness dominates stiffness. I printed using PETG, 1mm Shell I think.

Shaping & Brazing of Impact Socket.
Use Propane torch to temper Impact Socket so that it can be trimmed with hack saw. (Mine were hard enough the saw skated off the Square Drive portion.)

• Heat to dull red, hold at dull red with heat soaks in to the bulk of the part - like 30 seconds of feathering heat after red is achieved then allow to slow cool. (Throw in sand or just sit in air, whatever tickles your goat.) If you want to make it a hair easier on yourself and you don't mind waiting, heat treat them twice. The important factor is "time at the dull red temperature" so they don't really have to fully cool between heats. (See Curie Temp, Martensite reversion if interested.)

Use hack saw to trim off excess of the "softened" male Square drive. If your are a real machinist just use your hand file to flatten out the saw cut.
If you are a hobbyist like me and have an excess of tiny tools PM mocks you for, err I mean a Sieg mini lathe, (you can actually use it here btw) face and drill a small hole on one of the sockets, and machine an undersized alignment nub on the other to help with part alignment during brazing/welding/epoxying.

If you do the nub and hole trick, take the time to get a fitment with a 0.001 - 0.002in gap between the nub and hole. This will be a good Frey surface for the brazing to fill/stick to with capillary action. Probably couldn't hurt for epoxy.

If brazing apply flux and line up your sockets, try taking the time to line up the little hole features, I found it easier to clock components during use and it looks a hair more professional. Another tip is to clip a few (2-3) 1/8in pieces of braze filler and dropped them in side the top socket. This will melt and flow in. My inner child encouraged me to get over involve and continue to poke and glob braze on the outside unnecessarily. If the fitment is good the few pieces of braze should suffice.

Hit with torch until braze flows. Allow to cool.

Note on Passivation - The sockets originally were coated with a black coating. (Phosphate or paint maybe?) Regardless all the heating will have killed that pretty good. Consider taking a wire brush to your adapter and then giving it at least an old rattle can treatment. I went back and took a skim cut on the lathe and then hit it with clear coat.

Last note - My draw bar on the PM25 had a few burrs and didn't fit the sockets super nice, just take those handy filing skills to work and clean up the flats a bit. Should go on real smooth with about 1 min of TLC.

Use washers to shim the bracket into place for final mounting.

MODIFYING BLUE Cover

Use cardboard/machinist parallels/shims and a C clamp to hold bracket in place to blue sheet metal cover with everything axially aligned. Give it all a hand spin to check for unacceptable runout. When Aligned well you can use transfer punches to mark out the hole pattern real nice like. I used Rivnuts on mine that worked out real nice. Any who Best of luck!