Simple little clock case for https://www.ebay.ca/itm/253756367424

There are two different backs, as I made this originally to work with a barrel jack that I had laying around, but that I cannot seem to find anywhere. The other (smaller) is one I had just picked up at Solarbotics/ActiveTech. If you need it in a different size, I can alter that hole for you, just let me know the size it should be

I've also included a svg file if you have access to a laser cutter, to make the veneer panel. The clock would also look quite nice with if you flooded that area with an enamel paint (such as Testors)

Printrbot

Simple Black

No

Yes

0.1

0.1

If you use Cura, I do recommend using enabling the support interface option, just in general. You should also make use of the support blocker function for the screw holes. They don't need support, and getting the support out of them can be a pain, depending on your settings

For this, I used Oak Veneer, single layer thick, and stained it with a stain I just happened to have around. I would recommend laminating two layers at right angles though, I had issues with the single layer breaking. To laminate two pieces together, I evenly coated one piece with wood glue, then pressed the other against it using a set of quick grip clamps and two stiff, flat surfaces (an old printer bed and a small aquarium glass lid)

Stain then laser cut, use an appropriate glue to affix to the case

The back is attached with two computer case fan screws, simple enough. There are small holes inside for mounting the Nixie board to the case, but I didn't find them to be necessary.

For ease of rework, I replaced the original power connector of the clock with a JST power connector, mounted on the inside of the PCB sandwich. Small inline connectors would also work. This clock needs a 9-12v power supply, and there is room inside the case for a small boost converter if you want, I just used this USB to 12v cord https://www.adafruit.com/product/2778

• The clock is made of two boards that can be separated. Remove the Nixie board from the main board, and insert that into the case.
• Put the button in place
• Desolder and remove the power connector on the main board, replace it with a JST-PH connector, or wires that lead to an inline connector like a Molex microblade connector (or just use wires with no connectors). Make sure these route through the inside of the PCB sandwich, there is very little room behind the PCB when this is assembled
• The clock I got came with very long buttons, trim them down to where they can easily fit in the case. Flush cutters worked fine for me
• Solder the other ends of the power cables to the barrel jack, remembering that most power supplies are center pole positive
• Slide the main board into place over the nixie board. The printed button can sometimes slide in and block this board, so keep that pressed back
• Test your power connection and if all is good, screw the back panel on

When I first designed and printed this, the three lines on the front were not properly centered, as you might be able to spot in the image. I didn't mind the error enough to reprint the case and recut the veneer. That being said, I did correct the model and SVG, so you won't have the same issue