Keep your filament free of dust. Well, and it looks sweet - make your printer into a Robo Robot! This works with my Sturdy Top Mount Spool Holder, though may work with others also.

To use, open the doors slightly to place over your spool (needed because the shape is form fitting) then push the doors back into their closed position. You can track your filament levels through the windows.

Would love to hear what people think or see builds!

Updates
2018-04-13 - The gripper feet pictured on each door didn't hold to the sides of the enclosure as well as intended. I've redesigned (see exploded model) to use a clip instead.

2018-05-03 - The door-window in the picture is actually a version I didn't release. It was REAL hard to get the window in and the corners got a little messed up, so I redesigned so the top edge did not overlap the corners. Down side is with the lack of pressure the curvature is lost unless the window is exactly sized which I didn't want people to have to deal with. New version has two clips you insert after putting the window in which holds it in place. Works well!

Robo 3D

R1 ABS + PLA Model

Yes

Yes

.2mm

15%

If you use a raft, set to 10mm so it still fits in your slicer. You may have to rotate it. rnAlthough I printed most of it at 15%, the doors and the bearing arms I did at 25%rnrnThe print you see in the picture was a draft print. The endTop pieces take the longest at 16 hours in draft mode

• 2 - endBasern 2 - endToprn 1 - middle-archrn 2 - bearing-armrn 2 - door-windowrn 2 - door-cliprn 4 - bearing-headrn* 1 - windows-clip

For the following, mirror on the vertical axis in your slicer after import. This will result in them being upside down, so rotate 180 degrees to keep the original orientation for better printingrnrn 2 - bearing-armrn 2 - door-cliprn* 1 - window-clip

• 4x washers - ID 2mm OD <12mm ~1mm thickrnrnOptional: (I'm not currently using these)rn 4x M3 x 16 machine screwsrn 4x M3 nuts rn* 4x washer (same as above)

• 2x ~ 1mm x 102mm x 52mm transparent flexible plasticrn I used 3M shield lense at Amazon but could use the side of a soda bottlern 2x ~ 3.3mm x 190mm x 99mm transparent rigid plasticrn I used scrap plexiglass from the magnetic enclosure but could cut up a broken storage bin or wegmans takeout containerrn The cut is forgiving since the there is a 1cm frame hiding the edge. Before assembling one of the endTop pieces, lay facedown on your material and transcribe the curve

Basically you can use the model exploded picture as an assembly guidernrn Insert the side windows into each endTop through the slot in the toprn The endBase fits into the endTop to form the two sidesrn You may need to sand a little in spotsrn Glue thisrn The sides push into the middle-archrn Glue is not requiredrn 2 bearing-head pieces fit into the indentations of each endToprn Glue is not requiredrn Flex and install the windows into the door-window piecesrn Hook into the bottom slot first then flex plastic and set the other sidern press a window-clip into the slots on each side if your window doesn't match the curvature of the door (see pic of clip installed)rn One of each type of bearing-arm fits into each side of the door-window piecesrn Glue thisrn One of each type of door-clip fits into the indentation near the bottom of each doorrn Glue thisrn top is marked on the inside of the door-clip for orientationrn Stick a washer into one of the bearing-arm and hook around the bearing-head on one side of an endToprn Stick a washer into the opposite bearing-arm and hook around the bearing-head on the other sidern* Repeat for the other doorrnrnI designed this originally to be held together with screws, but never ended up using any after assembly. If you choose to, there are nut sockets on the inside and holes for the screws. Use an additional washer on the outside of the bearing-arm