Introduction

This is a 4-inch 3D-printed speaker driver with 5 carefully designed parts. For added convenience, I sourced a surround from AliExpress to enhance its performance and for the ease of use.

The frequency response of the driver shows only the frequency response and does not represent the efficiency, as it was measured nearfield.

The Buildup of the speaker:

Outer Frame – Made durable and designed for easy 3D printing.

Magnet Case – Composed of 12 small neodymium magnets arranged around a central larger magnet. The outer magnets help compress the magnetic waves, strengthening the magnetic field in the center, which boosts efficiency (dB).

Spider – Flexible yet controlled to ensure a stable and precise frequency response.

Cone Design – Geometrically optimized for enhanced strength and extended frequency response.

Dust Cap – Roundly shaped to ensure good aerodynamics and increased strength.

Surround – Sourced from AliExpress to simplify the assembly process while maintaining superior performance. Although not fully 3D-printed, the design allows for easier assembly and better performance. For those who want to go full DIY, a surround STL is included for the tryhards lol.

Things You’ll Need:

• 5 x 20mm neodymium magnets and 1 x 20x20mm neodymium magnet
• 4-inch rubber surround
• Glue and rubbery adhesive
• 2x M3 8-10mm long cylinder head screws

Printing:

Print the cone using PETG for a warmer sound or PLA for a more extended, colder sound. The spider must be printed with 100% infill using PETG. To further strengthen your prints, adjust the extrusion multiplier to 105-110% for both the cone and the spider.

Voice Coil Assembly:

Use 0.15mm enameled copper wire for optimal performance. Start by applying glue to the voice coil structure and wind the wire, securing it with glue at intervals to maintain a strong bond. Once winding is complete, apply a generous layer of glue around the entire coil to firmly secure it.

Attach the wire ends to a hole in the chassis, leaving some slack to allow for excursion, do not pull them tight! Ensure the wires are positioned so they do not contact the spider nor cone when playing. Finally, heat the end of the copper wire (e.g., with a lighter) to burn off the enamel, then solder them to a different wire.

Why use 0.15mm enameled copper wire? Its flexibility makes it an excellent choice, especially if you’re not using tinsel leads. I recommend winding to achieve an impedance of 8-10 ohms, ensuring a robust and efficient voice coil. High impedance is not a problem for most amplifiers!

Gluing:

Use a two-component adhesive to attach the spider to the chassis, secure the coil to the spider, and bond the cone to the dust cap. A darker spot on the cone marks the center, helping you align the dust cap precisely.

For attaching the surround to the chassis, use a rubber-based glue or gel-like adhesive to ensure a durable and flexible bond.

Updating:

This driver is outdated, lol. I might post an improved version on my Patreon in the future. Feel free to do whatever you want with these files just make sure to give me credit if you reupload them with changes, as stated in the license.

Support my work on Patreon for exclusive content and to help fund future projects, including free public releases:
👉 patreon.com/Hexer3D

By supporting me, you not only gain access to exclusive content but also contribute to the development of innovative projects and free resources for the community. Your support makes all of this possible—thank you! 🙏

💰 Just want to leave a tip? You can do so here:
👉 PayPal Pool