This is a lightsaber hilt and chassis that I designed for my kids. The body is designed so that it fits the "scrap" pieces sold at Disneyland and Disneyworld at Star Wars Traders & Tattooine Traders respectively. I wanted something that allowed my kids to use all their pieces from the build your own sabers, but step up the abilities of the saber. They wanted a neopixel, but this is far more durable. This hilt will use the same blades, emitters & pommels from the build your own stations.

Warning: electronics can produce heat and fires. Do this at your own risk. 

This electronics install is not for the faint of heart. It's a fully custom install use a cree LED setup and a proffieboard.

Parts I used:

• Proffieboard V2
• Main Blade
  • LED Heatsink
  • RGBW Cree
  • Thermal Pad
  • Lens
• 12mm momentary Switch for main switch
• 3x6x4.3 mm momentary switch for blade detect
• WS2812 Neopixel for the Crystal Chamber
• Smugglers Outpost 7 Pole Chassis PCB
  • no link as it seems to be sold out currently
  • If you choose to use an RGB instead of the RGBW, you could use a 6 pole, which are more common
• 28mm speaker - I recommend smugglers outpost for the best sound, but I used something cheaper for my kids sabers
• Battery Contacts
• Small Rumble Motor - totally optional. I really like the extra vibration it adds, but configuring the blade styles has proven to be tricky
• 18650 protected button top battery 

A few notes on the installation/configuration:

• You must set the main blade up to dim it. I set mine to 50% and it hasn't gotten warm enough to be a concern. If you don't dim the blade it WILL melt your hilt. (I did this accidentally before updating my configuration).
• Due to the limited number of poles on the chassis connection, I wired the positive connection to the buttons and used the “PullDownButton” option in proffie.
• The blade detect isn't totally necessary, but I highly recommend it for kids. Even at 50% brightness those LEDs are super bright and will hurt eyes, even unintentionally.
• The “PCB Pusher” model is available to make it easier to push the hilt side chassis PCB in. This was a lifesaver when I was trying to get it to fit in nice and tight.
• I recommend printing the hilt in PETG. That should give it a bit more resistance when they're being hit hard and some more temperature resistance if the LEDs heat up. I printed the chassis in PETG as well, but I think it would be fine in PLA.
   

I included the fusion 360 files in case anyone wants to modify things. For my versions, I included my kids names in an arubesh font, but I removed those from the STL. I apologize for the mess in those files, this was my first project in Fusion 360!