Imposter wax candle making kit! Great holiday gift for the imposter in your ship.

Printing tips:
1) You should not need to use any supports or brims. Orient as needed, and should be pretty obvious.
2) If you can, increase the detail/smaller layer height towards the top of each Positive so the layer lines are less noticeable.
3) PLA is rumored to react negatively to silicon liquid latex due to the sulfate in PLA, but I have not had any issues so far using PLA.
4) Make sure your printer is not over-extruding. Slightly under-extrude if needed.

Prusa

i3 MK3

No

No

<0.2mm

10-15%

Thing you'll needed:

• Silicon Mold material, found at Michaels, online, etc. Look for liquid latex rubber style
• Paraffin Wax - Best we found for these was the 100% paraffin at Michaels. Do not use Soy wax. Try other waxes at your own risk.
• Rubber Bands
• A pot and a melting pot to melt the candle wax
• Candle wick that is strip shaped. DO NOT USE ROUND WICKS. (See the groove that will be made from the positive front mold. That is where the wick will fit. If the wick is too big or small, the wax will leak out from the head as it cools.)
• A scale that can measure 1 gram increments

Mold Instructions:

• Print all the parts, plus a second "Imposter Wax Enclosure"
• Insert the "Silicon Positive Mold - Front" into the Curing Enclosure - Top
• Slide on the bottom to encase it. Make sure the positive mold is pressed securely to the back. (See the GIF)
• Wrap in in 3-5 rubberbands so that it presses tightly onto the positive.
• Mix your silicon mold material (Eyeball how much you think you'll need for one side, and then add about 20% more) Don't waste it! Shits expensive!
• From about 1-2 feet above the mold, SLOWLY pour in the silicon liquid so that a TEENY TEENY stream is entering the enclosure and hitting the bottom.
• Fill just near to the top, leave about 2-3mm from the top if possible.
• Add a small small wedge under the base opposite the slit side of the enclosure, so that the entire assembly has a small (2-5 degrees) angle so that any trapped bubbles are stuck and rise out
• Let it cure until very firm. Usually about 6-12 hours, depending on temp/humidity.
• Extract the mold once cured, and repeat the same for the other positive side.

Wax Pouring Instructions:

• Heat your wax to well past its melting point, but below 200 degrees, add any colors till you get it correct. (Hold off on scents until you are close to pouring)
• Cut about 4-5 inches of wick
• Warm the silicon molds with a hair blow dryer or a dehydrator until the molds are warmish.
• Lay the cut wick into the groove on the Positive - Front mold and through the base large hole.
• Pair the Rear molt to the Front. Gently pull the wick back and forth from both sides so that the wick settles into the groove.
• Enclose the molds with the 3d printed Wax Enclosures. Put rubber bands around both the top and bottom. Thicker rubber bands work well. Should be a little hard to get around the enclosure.
• Optional: Scent your wax now.
• Pour the wax into the hole slowly till it overflows the top.
• You will see shrinkage happening in about 30sec - 1minute. Keep pouring to make sure that the wax is full at the top.
  NOTE: The goal is to keep HOT wax entering the voids as the wax cools, so that the HOT wax melts and gets sucked into the cooling/shrinking areas. This helps keep empty pockets from forming around the feet and butt.
• Once the top has solidified and you can not pour anymore wax in, let cool for about 3-4 hours. Do not put in the fridge or freezer.
• Cut off the butt stem with a sharp razor blade.
• ENJOY!