This thing is still "work in progress" and will be updated every now and then. So please collect or follow this thing instead of just downloading it to receive updates!

Note: This thing is only the output of an automatic model generator.

This is a new project: a 3D-printable case model generator written in C++ and the powerful C++ object oriented mechanics library OOML. Create a case model for any electronic's board with minimal effort: the generator includes an algorithm (the actual, generic design), instead of a design for a particular device.

The generator outputs the model as a SCAD file, which can then be further processed to an STL file by OpenSCAD and finally 3D-printed.

This thing contains a case for the CubieBoard only as an example. (However, it isn't finished yet: a slot for the SD card as well as a hole for the IR sensor are missing).

To generate a case for a new device, you simply describe the board, such as the CubieBoard, Raspberry Pi, Arduino, etc. (the dimensions, holes and ports). No further effort needed, unless you want some special things on your case or the result isn't as expected. Then just run the generator on your new "board description".

For the source code of the generator itself, clone the git repository at https://bitbucket.org/leemes/ooml-case-factory. Or use this direct download link (.zip). This is a program written in C++, so you need a C++ compiler (which supports C++11), such as g++ (under Windows, it's called mingw). You also have to install ooml (see link above). When successfully compiled, you simply have to run the executable. There will be 3 files created (as uploaded in this thing): one file with both parts as well as two files with the parts separately. Open the files in OpenSCAD, render, export as STL and finally print.

If you'd like to build a case for a new board, please let me know in the comments! Also if you want to customize the design generation algorithm. I can help you as well as you can contribute to the project.

Some documentation and instructions for the internal workings to make it easy to create new board descriptions will follow. Also, I might create some online editor which lets you download the final SCAD file directly within the browser. Someone wants to help?

I printed it in ABS with 0.2mm layer height, 30% fill, no support.

The only tricky thing is printing the bridge at the screws of the smaller part: The screw heads will fit in some cuboid-shaped holes (you don't see them from this perspective, they are at the bottom). At the layer when these holes should be closed (the screw head ends), there is still the hole for the screw thread. Printing such a "bridge with a hole" is nearly impossible. For this, the generator inserts a "safe bridge": two to three additional layers without a hole for the screw thread (entire bridges). Drilling them out by hand should be easily possible.

Assembly (This Case for the Cubieboard)

1. Make sure the holes for the screws are large enough: Drill the hole at the bottom part (the smaller one) so an M3 screw can slide through (remove the "safe bridge" as explained above). You might want to screw down the assembled case first without a board to safely apply larger forces without damaging your board.

2. Put the Cubieboard upside down in the top part (the bigger one), the Ethernet port ahead. Its springs on the side have to "slide" in the whole for the port.

3. Important: After putting it in the top part, make sure the board's bottom surface (the one facing at you right now) is level with the inner half of the wall. This is the level where the bottom part will press against the board. If you don't make sure it's level, your board can be damaged!

4. Put the bottom part on top of the top part. It should close almost gapless without much force. If not, make sure the board fits correct and have a look for the location of the blocking.

5. Put four M3 screws with length between 8mm and 25mm (1in) (for example, these can be the same type than the ones you use for your printer's stepper motors) in the holes at the bottom. Do not overtighten, as the force will crack the inner cuboid-shaped screw holders off and might damage your board.