This is my seventh ’Thing', & also my seventh 'Fusion 360' design.

My other projects

—> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4716424
—> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4291794
—> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4213700
—> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4196767
—> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4158760
—> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4073804

Purpose:

I’ve purchased one of the now ubiquitous T-962 Reflow Ovens. I made this purchase knowing that there were problems, but also aware there are now modifications to better it’s performance!

Parts List:

One each of,

1. USB to Serial adaptor Base FINAL
2. USB to Serial adaptor Top FINAL
3. USB to Serial Adaptor Captured Nuts Front FINAL
4. FT232RL FTDI Mini USB to TTL Serial Converter

Instructions:

Follow the instructions from,

1. https://github.com/UnifiedEngineering/T-962-improvements/wiki
2. https://hackaday.io/project/175048/gallery#54b521e9c2f7f31f6fbb458f48030d7a
3. https://github.com/UnifiedEngineering/T-962-improvements/wiki/Dallas-18B20-for-cold-junction-mod

I have included drivers for both #Windows & #MacOS, which are files from the FTDI website; https://ftdichip.com/drivers/vcp-drivers/

1. CDM v2.12,28 WHQL Certified.zip
2. FTDIUSBSerialDriver_v2_4.dmg

Warning: These fies are provided "as is", & I can't guarantee their suitability for your machine. They are however touted as designed for this particular board

My parts allow you to have a permanent connection to the micro-controller. This will mean you can re-flash the oven, without having to take it apart every time.,

Prusa

I3 MK3S

No

No

.2mm

20%

You need to make an opening through the grill somewhere where the internal container won't foul wiring or equipment. The opening should be 10mm only, The image below shows the method I used.

Make the cut somewhere about mid grill height.

Then slide four M2 nuts into the slots in the sides of the front cover, centre them using a hex spanner, then secure the parts together.