Under normal circumstances, I wouldn't opt for toolheads like Sprite, as there are many more performant and cost-effective DIY solutions on the market

To fix the Sprite to the bracket and install the bracket to the slider, you need to prepare several M3 self-tapping screws:

1 M3×6 screw

5 M3×8 screws

2 M3×16 screws

During installation, first remove the bolts that fix the V-shaped pulley to the X-axis slider, insert the bracket between the bolts and the original metal slider, and then reassemble it in the original order. To add more styling to the "umbilical cord", I drilled an additional hole at the top of the stress elimination tower to make it easier for you to insert a section of Bowden tubing.

This modification will hardly take up any print bed area, but you must adjust the bed offset value in the Marlin firmware in the custom firmware, or directly in the slicing software. The recommended initial E step value is about E424.9, and the probe offset I measured is X-31 and Y-41. These parameters can be adjusted either through the firmware settings or via G-code or the printer's user interface.

The wiring in the photo is really a bit messy, and the design is a bit outdated. After all, I haven't had time to completely upgrade my printer yet. Once I've finished all the modifications, I'll upload an updated photo for everyone to refer to.

 

Print settings

Printing brand:

VoronDesign

Printing model:

Voron 0

Base plate support:

None

Supporting structure:

Yes, I have

Layer thickness:

0.20mm

Fill density:

40% honeycomb-shaped

Consumables: Hatchbox ABSBlack

Remark:

Given that the component is located right next to the heating block at the hot end, I strongly recommend using ABS or other high-temperature-resistant materials for printing. According to the tips in the screenshots of the included slicing software, you just need to add support structures at the fan shroud and the CR-Touch bracket.