## 3D Printing Guide (TPU)
TPU is flexible and slightly tricky compared to PLA. The settings below are
a safe starting point for a 0.4 mm nozzle and any TPU rated **shore 90A–95A**.
Softer TPU (e.g. 85A) is harder to print and usually requires a direct-drive
extruder.
### Slicer settings
| Setting | Recommended value |
|---------------------|----------------------------------------------------|
| Layer height | 0.16–0.20 mm |
| Wall / perimeters | 3 walls |
| Top / bottom layers | 4–5 (the pad is short, so this fills it solidly) |
| Infill | 30–60% gyroid (gyroid keeps the part flexible) |
| Print speed | 20–30 mm/s for walls, 25–35 mm/s overall |
| Travel speed | 80–120 mm/s |
| Retraction | Direct drive: 0.5–1.5 mm @ 25 mm/s. Bowden: avoid retraction or keep it short and slow. |
| Nozzle temperature | 220–235 °C (follow the filament label) |
| Bed temperature | 40–60 °C |
| Cooling fan | 30–60% after the first layer |
| Z-hop | Disabled |
| Adhesion | Brim 3–5 mm — the part is small and TPU adheres differently than PLA |
| Supports | Not needed for the default model |
### Before pressing print
1. **Dry the filament.** TPU is hygroscopic; wet TPU bubbles, stringy, and
prints poorly. 4–6 h at 50 °C in a filament dryer is usually enough.
2. **Clean the bed.** Isopropyl alcohol is fine; do **not** use glue stick or
PVA on a smooth PEI sheet — TPU can bond too strongly and chip the plate.
Hairspray works as a release layer if adhesion is too aggressive.
3. **Check the extruder tension.** Too tight and TPU will deform between the
gears and grind; too loose and it slips. Aim for the lightest setting that
still feeds reliably.
4. **Slow the first layer** to ~15 mm/s for clean adhesion.
### After printing
- TPU rarely warps, so let it cool on the bed for a minute and it will pop
off easily.
- The grip dots may have small strings; trim them with a sharp knife.
- If you need a softer feel, lower the infill; for more load capacity raise
it or add walls.
### Sizing tips for the actual application
- Measure the desk leg footprint and add ~4 mm on each side so the leg sits
comfortably inside the pad.
- Pick a height that fully closes the gap you are trying to shim. For a
wobbly desk where one leg is 3 mm short, a 5–6 mm pad under that one leg
is ideal.
- For chair wheels or rolling furniture, this pad is **not** the right tool;
use a non-rolling pad without grip dots instead.
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