No supports needed!

Add your graphics to each side for a slick, professional mic cube that looks great on camera. 

I recommend modeling and printing your graphics as separate pieces. You can then either glue them straight onto the cube, or edit the cube model to add an inset of 0.5mm in the shape of your graphic on each side. That way it fits exactly where you want it every time. You can also just slap on a sticker, I guess.

To secure the mic, you can either insert a block of foam (appx. 56mm × 56mm × 30mm) with a hole cut in the center, or print the included insert using FLEX. 

The insert comes in two halves, because shoving it in as one piece is essentially impossible. As two pieces it's pretty tight, but I promise they will both fit. 

The hole in the insert is sized for a Sony UTX-M40 wireless stick mic, with the top of the cube resting a little above the bottom edge of the mic cap. Check the dimensions of your model microphone around where you want the center of the cube to sit so you can determine if you need to adjust the model. If your mic is slightly fatter, the flexible material ought to accommodate for it. If your mic is thinner, you may need to shrink the hole.

Two versions of the insert have been provided. “TIGHT FIT” is nice and snug. It will not move unless you really want it to. “LOOSE FIT” grips the mic just enough to remain in place securely, but can be slid down without much effort. This is useful in cases (like ours) where the mic's power button is right where the cube ordinarily sits.

FOR PRINTING THE CUBE:

• No supports necessary! For added insurance, I recommend enabling thick bridges, but you'll probably be OK without.
• Both PLA and PETG work fine.
• The bottom edge is fairly thin, so add a generous brim if you have any issues whatsoever with bed adhesion.
• The model itself is optimized for print speed and overall strength. If you need the cube to withstand regular abuse by reporters/photographers/MMJs/children, I recommend a maximum layer height of 0.15, and a minimum of 3 perimeters.
• You don't need to go crazy with infill or top/bottom layers. 20-25% Adaptive Cubic and 5-6 top/bottom layers works well in my experience.

FOR PRINTING THE INSERT:

• Print two of the FLEXIBLE_INSERT models using your chosen FLEX filament.
• Print each half separately for the cleanest result.
• No supports or brim needed.
• Layer height & first layer height: 0.15
• Perimeters: 3
• Top & bottom layers: 0
• Infill: Honeycomb @ 15% density
• Fill angle: 0

It's difficult to give specific recommendations on FLEX since there are so many different kinds as well as other variables, but this is what's worked well for me, using Overture brand Black TPU:

• Avoid crossing perimeters: Enabled
• Seam position: Nearest
• Perimeter speed: 30mm/s
• Infill speed: 45mm/s
• Retraction Length: 0

Modify the models as you see fit, but please don't post remixes.

Good luck!