Summary
I've used this case design on several of my printer projects as it's a nice simple design with good mounting lugs and holds the Pi securely with full access to the necessary slots and port required for Octoprint.
My latest purchase has been an Anycubic Predator D which has proprietry castings / extrusions for the main frame and I can't bring myself to drill holes in it. The electronics are contained in a steel enclosure at the top of the printer and whilst there is sufficient room inside for the Raspberry Pi, the additional heat was a concern and I also felt that the steel enclosure might limit the wifi reception so I elected to mount it outside.
The remix consists of some new countersunk holes in the base of the case which align with the hexagonal punched holes of the grille of the printer. There is a frame which fits on the inside of the electronics housing which holds 4 x M3 nuts and the base is screwed to these with 4 x M3 x 8mm screws. You have the choice of top cover and I've included the 3 designs from the original author (0110-M-P).
PS. One in the photo is for the 30mm fan which is yet to be fitted.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Anycubic
Printer:
Predator
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.2mm
Infill:
30%
Notes:
Print the base and top of the case with the flat side against the bed. The nut holder frame is printed with the hexagonal holes for the nuts facing onto the bed. I didn't use supports and the holes bridged out ok.
Post-Printing
Assembly Instructions
Before fitting the case to the printer, I recommend fitting the nuts into the nut holder frame. They can either be pressed in with a vice or pliers, or my preferred method is to use one of the M3 screws and a washer and pull them into position. The holes for the nuts are deliberately snug to prevent the nuts falling out during fitting.
Choose a suitable position on the grille to fit the case and pass the screws through the holes in base of the case, through the grille holes and into the nuts in the frame inside the electronics enclosure. Fit all four screws loosely and align the case before fully tightening.
I used a 24Volt - 5 Volt Buck converter to power the Pi from the spare terminals of the PSU. I routed the cable out through the filament entry hole across the top of the printer. It's not the most elegant of solutions but the pre-attatched USB plug won't fit through the holes in the grille. I might revisit this in the near future to tidy it up a bit.
Hope someone finds some use for this remix and thanks go to 0110-M-P for the original design. Let me know if you have any thoughts or improvements.
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