A fully parametric, modular drawer divider.

Are you tired of those drawer dividers that don't take up the entire drawer space and have an unsatisfactory layout? Then this product is exactly what you're looking for!

You can unleash your creativity, customize design parameters, and create a unique perfect layout tailored to your needs; or you can simply use the pre-generated STL files and start printing right away. When designing on your own, I recommend setting the length of the partition board as an integer multiple of the length of the connectors - this will make it much more flexible to adjust in the future.

Enjoy the fun of creating to the fullest, and feel free to share your works with me so that I can be amazed by them! 😉

Updated on November 19, 2020

In response to the needs of many users, I have uploaded a ZIP file that contains a single STL file for all components, along with a variety of preset parameter options. From now on, you no longer need to manually split STL files.

However, I still recommend that you use OpenSCAD yourself, or design it with Thingiverse's custom tools. You can further fine-tune many parameters and choose any size you want. For this, you just need to keep one file—drawer_organizer.scadAll other components will be automatically generated based on the .scad file.

If you want to help optimize and improve this design, you can now submit issues, initiate forks, or directly submit pull requests on GitHub: [https://github.com/wbu/drawer_organizer](https://github.com/wbu/drawer_organizer)

Update of Version 1.1 on September 4, 2021

I've added a thoughtful new feature: When assembling various components, the system will emit a "click" sound, providing a more solid sense of fit and making the components more stable in the vertical direction. Unfortunately, this subtle raised design makes the connectors of version 1.1 not fully compatible with those of version 1.0. However, the dividers of version 1.1 can still be used seamlessly with the components of version 1.0.
You can control this function with the snap_connection_size parameter: the default value is 1mm, which will create a slight bump at the connection point; if you set it to 0, you can generate parts without bumps, which is consistent with version 1.0. In addition, you can also fine-tune the size of the bumps according to your actual needs.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where can I report problems or share more practical new features with everyone?

Welcome to GitHub: [https://github.com/wbu/drawer_organizer](https://github.com/wbu/drawer_organizer)

When I put all the parts together, I always feel like I need to hit them with a hammer to get them in place. What exactly is the problem here?

It's likely that your printer hasn't been properly calibrated, resulting in print sizes that are much larger than the specifications in the STL file, or the first layer being too compressed and too wide. I recommend enabling the "Eliminate 'Elephant Foot'" option in the slicing software to improve the flatness of the first layer. If this setting still doesn't completely resolve the issue, you can adjust the printer's extrusion parameters appropriately, or increase the model's gap parameter from the default 0.15mm to a higher value. At this point, you'll

How come all these parts don't match up with each other?

This isn't a problem - you're probably assembling the "frame parts" and "non-frame parts" together. The frame parts themselves are relatively thin (and often have a slight slope). In particular, the frame T-shaped connectors are often easily confused because they connect thinner frame parts with thicker internal parts: [Image display]

Why are the border components tilted?

When the border components are set with a non-zero border_overhang parameter, they will display a certain tilt angle. The inner side of my drawer's side walls is slightly tilted, so to ensure there are no gaps during assembly, I also had to slightly tilt the border components. If the four edges of your drawer remain vertical, you can choose border components with border_overhang=0. However, it's important to note that even in this case, the border components are still asymmetric - the outer side remains vertical, while the inner side will be slightly tilted.

Why can't I ever successfully slice the rounded-corner T-shaped connectors when using PrusaSlicer?

For the specific reasons, please refer to [GitHub issue #4](https://github.com/wbu/drawer_organizer/issues/4). In short, this was a problem that had been fixed in PrusaSlicer—now, PrusaSlicer has completely resolved this issue in version 2.4.0.

Why does the geometric structure of the folding partition appear abnormal?

I suspect that this might be a problem with OpenSCAD or its rendering library CGAL, but I'm not 100% sure at the moment. I need to do more in-depth research next. Fortunately, so far, I've been lucky and successfully cut out all the necessary parts.

When you were using OpenSCAD, did you feel mentally exhausted and almost "burn out your brain"?

That's true! However, this experience has also been very rewarding for me. Through this practice, I deeply realized that there are many flaws and shortcomings in Thingiverse, especially its customization tools. Using OpenSCAD just to adapt to Thingiverse's customization tools is not really worth it. OpenSCAD's running speed is too slow, and many operations are particularly cumbersome. If I had to start over, I might consider switching to another tool instead.https://github.com/Haskell-Things/ImplicitCADor more efficient tools like FreeCAD.

Prusa

I3 MK3S

No

No

0%–3%

I adopted the following printing settings:

• Double-layered outer contour
• Fill the bottom of the two layers
• Most components are filled with 0% material, except for the long partition boards, which are filled with 3% material to prevent the occurrence of bulging
• To remove the "elephant foot" effect, set it to 0.15mm.

In the early stage of testing, I used PLA material to print parts; in the final product, I switched to PETG material. Both materials performed very well and fully met my needs.