This is the prototype for a small (4 inch) coffin shaped wood working smoothing plane. As this is a prototype, the tolerances are tight.

There are two models: One for all parts (to check assembly) and one for easier printing and assembly. The all-parts model will try your patience.

The bed angle is 55 degrees.

The "real" plane will be made from metal with the sides dovetailed on. The sole will be steel and sides will be steel or brass. The blade spine will be welded on.

Note: The planes in the photos have had an hour or so of sanding on the sides and lever cap.

To assemble the plane you will need:

• 1/8" drill
• #30 (0.1285") drill bit (optional)
• Hand chuck to hold drill so you can ream holes without power.
• 1/4"-20 tap (maybe). I tap. You might be able to use a bolt to clean the thread.

• 1/4"-20 die (probably not), a nut will work to clean the thread.

• 1/8" rod, 1.36" long (I use welding rod). Steel or brass.

• Glue, such as "super" (CA) or hot for the front bun.

If you are assembling the model with separate sides:

• Small triangular file (such as a saw file) to clean out the dovetails.
• Scraper (6" steel rule or back edge of exacto knife) to deburr edges. Use a dragging motion (negative rake).

Printer settings:

Defaults:

• Layer height: 0.15mm
• Infill: 15%
• Support: None
• Brim: None

xs4cp_sole.stl
xs4cp_blade.stl

• Use defaults.

xs4cp_front_bun.stl
xs4cp_rear_bun.stl

• Use 5% infill.

xs4cp_body.stl

• Use your slicer to add high detail along the top edge (or it will be stepped).

xs4cp_cap_screw.stl

• Use your slicer to add high detail above the thread.
• This part has a built in brim and support. The support should only touch a single thread at three points and easily peel off. It will leave little blobs on the thread that can be cleaned with a nut.

xs4cp_lever_cap.stl

• Use your slicer to add high detail to the gentle horizontal slopes or they will be quite stepped.

xs4cp_left_side.stl
xs4cp_right_side.stl

• There is no good way to print these parts. Don’t print them unless you want to see how this type of plane is made (or as templates).
• The "best" way to print these is on their nose (90° on Y) as that requires the minimal cleanup to fit. The sides will require sanding for aesthetics.
  --Use support everywhere when printed in this orientation.
• For other orientations, use your slicer to add high detail along the curved top. Otherwise, it will be stepped and the rear bun will not fit well.
• If printed as presented, use support from the bottom. This will require you to file the bottoms of the dovetails to fit the sole and is fiddly.
• Upside down: the dovetails fit but the top edges will have issues.
• On the side: Step-O-Ramma (ugly) but top and bottom are nice.

Assembly

Assembly common parts:
xs4cp_blade.stl
xs4cp_capScrew.stl
xs4cp_front_bun.stl
xs4cp_lever_cap.stl
xs4cp_rear_bun.stl

Assembly with integral sides:

Add: xs4cp_body_stl

• Machines the threads as needed.
• Using the 1/8" drill in a hand vise, run it through the sides using care to line up both holes. If you use power, do it SLOWLY.
• Run the 1/8" drill through the lever cap and follow that with the #30 drill. This will make it easy to push the rod through.
• Cut the 1/8" rod long, file the ends square and to length. Test fit in sides and lever cap then assemble.
• Glue the front bun in place.
• Slide (vertically) the rear bun into place. No need for glue.
• Screw in the cap screw.
• Slide in blade (logo to the front).
• [Very lightly] tighten the screw.
• Done

Assembly with separate sides:

If not printed on the nose, fitting the sides is fiddly and tedious. Use the file and scrapers to remove flash and sag. Sanding will be needed somewhere for aesthetics.
The dovetails are 60° so a triangular fits but will not clean into the corners. Use a exacto knife there.
Add: xs4cp_sole.stl, xs4cp_left_side.stl, xs4cp_right_side.stl

https://youtu.be/t6d92HS_wKg
https://youtu.be/EYUWctHViiA