VERSION NOTICE: I have made some big changes to the design which, IMO, make a better Thing. Here it is:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6246207

The embarrassing part first: wow is my workspace a mess in these pictures! Now you know the REAL me. ;-)

I’ve seen a lot of different versions of this gadget, and I have made here a variant with some mods which I find useful. I’m hoping others also find them useful.

- The mounting design is made to suit my Reality Ender 3v2 frame. I have also included a T-nut model for the sake of aiding you with mounting after printing.

- The base of the arm has a rotating locking connector. This means you can turn the arm holding the camera rather than have a fixed perspective. (Special thanks to JuanAto’s original design https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5415138 which is remixed here)

- The base also has guides in the base plate to help stay aligned in the grooves on the printer frame.

- This turning connector is modeled to print flat, adding strength to the connector, see the next bullet point.

- I have also added connector parts. These parts are similar to standard GoPro connector parts, but they are definitely not compatible. I hate GoPro parts because they are too fragile. I am also aware that printing these parts has the hazard that if you print them “tall-ways” the direction of the layers causes fragility. These connector parts are all modeled to print “flat-wise” so that layers can run “tip-to-root” rather than “side-to-side”. The lengths of the length-wise lines add strength. When you print these, print at high resolution to get the curved ends as smooth as possible.

- Because all the connectors are my design, I have added my design for the “open” GoPro Camera clamp. It should be suitable for all GoPro and GoPro imitators, either forward- or back-facing. You will need to add supports when you print this.

- If you like this "chonky" style of connectors, check out my kit for "chonky" GoPro connectors:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5593105

- The last piece is a simple riser to put under the tensioning cap to reduce camera vibration. It works best if to pad the ends with simple craft foam from HobbyLobby or WMT.

- Printing is at your discretion. I print the connectors at 30% infill but with thick walls (8 layers) for strength. This makes the connector ends 100% fill and body lighter (less waster material).

- The nut cavities are formatted to accept 10-32 nuts which you can find at Lowes or HomeDepot.

Enjoy!

Creality

Ender 3

Doesn't Matter

Doesn't Matter

High

various