This activated carbon filter absorbs the odors emitted by the resin during printing. It can be installed in your printer without the need for modification. In addition, it operates on electrical induction, so you can forget about spending money on batteries or having to charge it.

It consists of two parts: a magnetic induction charger that must be connected to any USB charger and installed outside the printer, and the filter itself, which remains inside the printer and consists of a magnetic induction receiver, two blowers, and an activated carbon filter. Both parts are firmly attached to each other with the plastic lid of the printer in the middle, thanks to eight magnets.

Hardware

For this project, you will need additional hardware in addition to a soldering iron, solder, and contact adhesive (multimeter and small flathead screwdriver recomended).

• Induction Power Supply Module - Charger and Receiver
  Magnetic induction loses power as the distance between the charger and the receiver increases. Because the plastic cover is somewhat thick, it is recommended to purchase a 2A version to ensure sufficient power is supplied to run the two fans (although this is not actually necessary, as both fans consume very little energy).
• 5V input - 12V output 2A DC Step Up with USB
  Voltage also decreases with distance in induction charging. The previous charging module supports up to 12V input. The receiving module incorporates a voltage step-down converter that reduces the input to 5V, but if the input is less than 5V, it cannot correct it and the fans will run at lower power. This voltage converter is not only adjustable but also includes a pre-soldered micro USB port. Make sure to purchase the version that includes this micro USB port.
• 2x 5015 5V Blower Fan
  The ones that include bearings are more durable, while the hydraulic ones are cheaper. Make sure to buy two units that are 5V.
• 8x 15mm Disc Magnets
  Depending on the thickness of your plastic lid and the holding force you require, you can use magnets of greater or lesser thickness. The model supports magnets up to 8mm thick (which I personally believe could be too strong). I recommend using 3mm thick magnets, which are a middle ground and work well for a plastic lid around 4mm thick. If you need more holding force, you can always place multiple magnets in each hole. You will need to buy at least 8.
• Activated Carbon Foam (consumable)
  Buy several, as it is a consumable item. The lifespan of the filters will depend on how much you use your printer. You'll know it's time to replace the filter when you start to smell the resin again. You'll need to cut them with scissors to a size of approximately 10x5cm.
• Micro USB Charging Cable with ON/OFF Switch (recommended)
  It's not mandatory, but this way you can turn your filter on and off easily if your charger doesn't have a switch.
• USB charger
  You probably have one at home from an old phone, but make sure it has enough power to compensate for the loss from induction. The step-up can handle up to 2A, so a charger that is around that range will be sufficient.
• Cables
  You may need additional cables, although you can manage with the ones that come already included in the components like I did.

Printing

All the parts are already oriented and ready for printing, no supports are needed. Since resin printers don't get hot, you don't need to print in a material that can withstand high temperatures. You could use PLA, but keep in mind that PLA degrades when exposed to ultraviolet light for too long. If you typically use transparent resins, it may be better to use a different material.

Assembly

The assembly is simple, as there are two pieces. We'll divide it into two parts: first, we'll take care of the electronics in each one, and then we'll insert the components into the casings.

Power Module

Take the step-up and the transmitter module (the one with the smaller board), and simply connect negative with negative and positive with positive using the cables that come with the transmitter module. Check the markings on the boards to avoid making mistakes. The connection should be: (Transmitter module IN- > black cable > step-up VOUT-) and (Transmitter module IN+ > red cable > step-up VOUT+).

It is a good moment to adjust the output voltage of the step-up if you bought an adjustable one as I recommended. First, connect it to the power source with the USB charger. Be careful not to touch any board or cable now, as you could cause a short circuit. Take your multimeter and select the voltage measuring function, place each pole of the multimeter on each output of the step-up, where you previously soldered the cables. Using a small flathead screwdriver, turn the small screw on the side of the step-up until you see the multimeter reading 12V.

Now take the Power Module - Base Board and stick the magnets on the corners. If you place them alternately, you'll prevent the two modules from sticking to each other in incorrect positions. In other words, make sure that the magnets on opposite corners have the same orientation, and those on the same side have opposite orientation.

Make sure you don't confuse it with the Fan Case - Base Board. The one you need has a small tab with the shape of the micro USB port.

Take the induction transmitter coil and put it in its Power Module - Base Board slot. Cover it with one Coil Top and place both boards in their respective slots, passing the cables over the Coil Top. You'll know where each board goes by its size. Also, make sure the step-up goes on the side where the tab for the micro USB is located.

Now close the module with the Power Module - Top, making sure to align the hole with the micro USB tab. The close is a snap, without screws. You should hear a small click. We've finished the first part.

Filter Module

Take the receiver module and desolder the output cables (the ones that are red and black). Also, take both fans and cut their cables on the connector side. Separate a little both cables from each fan and join each color by twisting the ends together, that is, black with black and red with red.

Now solder the 2 twisted black wires to the negative of the receiver module and the 2 twisted red wires to the positive of the receiver module. (Fans IN- > black twisted cable > Receiver module OUT-) and (Fans IN+ > red twisted cable > Receiver module OUT+).

Take the Filter Module - Base Board and stick the magnets again in the same way you did before with the Power Module - Base Board. Make sure you orient them so that their backs attract each other. You can actually place them together to check the orientation before sticking the magnets with contact glue.

Now place the receiver module coil in its slot on the Filter Module - Base Board. Secure it with the Coil Top and then, passing the cables over the Coil Top, put the receiver board in its place. For now, leave the fans next to the board. In the next step, we will put them in its place.

Place the Filter Module - Fan Board on top of the Filter Module - Base Board. The slot it has is to facilitate the placement of the fan cables. It has to be on top of the receiver board.

Now first place the fan that is furthest away from the receiver board. Insert the fan holes through the two sticks that the Filter Module - Fan Board has and arrange its cables so that they fit through the mentioned gap.

Place the other fan in the same way in the position that remains over the receiver board. Hide its cables in the receiver board gap, they should not stick out.

You just need to place the cutout of the activated carbon filter on top of the fans and then place the Filter Module - Top in place until it clicks. Align the holes on the side with the air outlets of the two fans. No screws are needed.