NOTE: For Voron 2.4 350mm version, there is an easier to print (though thicker) option here:
   https://www.printables.com/model/1405557

Why do makers and enthusiasts love to print every other part of their printer, except the enclosure panels? It's time to change that, not just because we love to make things ourselves. But because there are very real improvements and advantages we have been missing out on.

A 3D print with 20% cubic infill is very equivalent in insulating value to thermal bubble wrap. Printing it thicker, such as these 16mm thick panels is equivalent to multiple layers of thermal bubble wrap.

In addition to being an elegant printable insulation solution, the fact that you are printing these means that you are not restricted to replicating flat PC panels. Tophats and side hats are possible. Ports for cables and fittings for bowden tubes are natural to add. And one can even locate filament spools or box-style carbon filters inside printers that could not previously fit them. 

The full series of models (names link to their pages) is:

• (This) Printsulation Flat Side and Top Panels 
• Printsulation Top Hats 
• Printsulation Side Hats 
• Printsulation Fittings
• Printsulation Test Parts 
   

SAFETY WARNING: Actively heated chambers are a common cause of house fires, especially involving one-off designs without professional QA and testing facilities. DO NOT USE any form of heater that could create hot spots or expose the Printsulation parts to ignition temperatures, including by installation error or by failure of any part or device in or near the printer.
 

FILAMENT CHOICE: Insure that your chamber temperatures never exceed a safe temperature for the filament you use. These panels will help you heat quicker with more energy efficiency regardless of temperature. But there has been insufficient testing, and there will always be too many variables to allow me to recommend a max temperature. 

As for options: If you are capable of printing Polymaker PolyLite PC and can afford it, it is by far the best choice among filaments up to $30/Kg. If not, Polymaker ABS is likely the next best choice, at $20/Kg.

This video with heat deflection testing may help you determine a max safe temperature. 
  

BOM: Developing this system took a great deal of time and money. Please support this project by using an affiliate link to buy your filament and other parts. By using one of my affiliate links to get to Amazon, I will be credited even if you buy a different color or brand.

• Filament: 
    - Polycarbonate: https://amzn.to/4dvC4hH
    - ABS: https://amzn.to/3YVCtpc 
   
• 8mm(w) x 3mm(t) Foam Sealing Tape: https://amzn.to/4dubLYv 
   

TOOLS AND WORKSPACE:

• A flat firm workbench or table… Or a warped piece of ¼" plywood sitting on a 12" paving stone (rolls eyes at self).
   
• A mallet, a heavy book, or something else to thump parts with: https://amzn.to/3AtWNDS 
   

INSTRUCTIONS (GENERAL FOR PRINTSULATION):

• This requires very accurate prints. So print the small test prints first! Make sure they join fine and the porthole plugs and bones fit as printed with your printer.
   
• Print with “cubic” infill of 15% to 40%. Reducing convection is important to this type of insulation, but so is increasing the amount of air. The ideal percent infill is unknown, but seems likely to be in the middle of that range. I have been using 20% infill to balance cost and print times against my personal printing needs. 
   
• Print 2 each of parts ‘A’ and ‘B’, along with your choice of 'porthole plug' or ‘bone’ fittings as needed per panel. Fittings are shared across projects, so are kept on their own Printsulation Fittings page.
   
• There is a (very) small chamfer on the bottom edge of “A” quarters, and the top edge of “B” quarters. For best results, put “B” parts on a firm flat surface and press “A” parts down into them. Also there is a small chamfer on the “In” side of the various fittings, with the intent that they be pushed in from the outside.
   
• Use 3mm foam sealing tape just as you would for a PC panel.
   
• Mount just as you would a PC panel, except perhaps using more or stronger clips if you are hanging 4Kg of filament on the inside of one of these.
   
• The portholes are for routing cables, Bowden tube, etc. I will add fittings for tight seals around such things as I make them, but the shape of these plugs is specified in the design details of the fittings page. So anyone with even beginner level 3D CAD skills can make their own custom parts fairly easily.
   
• There is a grid of 50mm spaced holes on the inside of each panel. They are 8mm deep and sized to allow common M3 screws to self-tap and hold pretty well.  I will add fan mounts and such for this (probably to a new ‘Printsulation Fixtures’ page) as I make them. But again, this is intended to make it relatively easy for anyone to design their own custom mounts for whatever may be needed.
   

YOUR PANEL SIZE NOT HERE?

Please request it in the “Makes and Comments” tab (above). Please state the printer model it is for, and link to official specs for the size needed. Or link to some evidence for a consensus of the size needed. I don't intend to clutter this with one-off sizes, but will be happy to post new sizes for common or production printers where at least a few people may be interested.
 

HOW TO SUPPORT YOUR FAVORITE DESIGNERS:

• The easiest (free) way to send money to the designer you are supporting, is to simply click an affiliate link to get to Amazon (or other site) whenever you buy something related to their work… Or unrelated even. 
   
• The rules are vague and change occasionally, but in general using an affiliate link to get to Amazon will credit the affiliate/designer a small percentage of sales that happen during that session. So… https://amzn.to/3WqP2WI   :-)   Thanks!