Summary

Update: I might eventually remake this design to be easier to assemble. Since I made this I have started using brass inserts that melt into the frame instead of nuts in my projects. These are FAR easier to use than what I did here so I cannot really recommend using this design anymore.

A 3 part case for a custom 68-key mechanical keyboard. The switch plate is compatable with MX type switches and should be the right thickness to allow the switches to clip.

I have a CR-10 Mini, so the full case would not fit on the build plate, so I had to split each model into two halves, which I friction welded together, but could probably be super glued together if needed.

This was originally for my own keyboard project based on this build: 68keys.io

My reddit post on the board is here: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/91mxpn/finally_posting_it_my_custom_68_key_board_with_3d/

More pictures of my finished board can be found here: https://imgur.com/a/spoQKb7

It uses the mf68 pcb which can be found
here: https://spacecat.design/products/mf68-v1-1-pcb
and here (out of stock at time of posting): https://spacecat.design/products/mf68-v1-1-pcb
It was originally designed by dioib, I believe.
It has a QMK preset for firmware here: https://config.qmk.fm/#/mf68/LAYOUT (the layout itself is blank, but that's easy to fill in)

If you are a beginner on windows, just save yourself the hassle of compiling with code and use the gui linked above. I also recommend this tutorial here for flashing the Arduino Pro Micro controller. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-L0EsyLXio

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Creality

Printer:

CR-10 Mini

Rafts:

Supports:

Resolution:

.15mm

Infill:

10%

Notes:

For nice and smooth switch plate top, print it directly onto a glass bed, might not be necessary. At least no raft for the plate if it can be avoided.

Post-Printing

I friction welded the parts together using a rotary tool from Harbor Freight and some 2.85mm filament from Gizmo Dorks (1.75mm is a bit too weak for welding. It is possible, but difficult).

After welding I sanded the welds down and applied Bondo filler and spot putty over the visible surfaces of the prints. I then sanded again with a finer grain carefully over the putty as it dried.

After some drying time I coated the parts matte black with Rust-oleum matte finish custom shop black, but they were still a bit glossy so I coated them with Rust-oleum matte finish.

Then the paint should dry and the parts can be assembled with M3 screws and nuts (some screws might need a bit of filing for a truly tight fit, as some holes are a bit between sizes in length and they can press on the front plate if tightened too far).

For assembling the keyboard itself see the guide I linked and read some of my other notes, here and on reddit.

I also put some of these rubber bumpers on the bottom for grip and to keep the bottom screws off of the table surface. (NOTE: if you don't have the bumpers put tape or something over the screw heads on the bottom as they will scratch table surfaces.)