Summary

yeetkus's Darksaber files are extremely detailed and fairly accurate. Recently, I bought a Darksaber replica from Hasbro's The Black Series (https://www.amazon.com/Black-Mandalorian-Darksaber-Force-Lightsaber/dp/B08SBS9CTB/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3FWB3IV3YU4IX&keywords=hasbro+darksaber+black+series&qid=1657245259&sprefix=hasbro+darsk%2Caps%2C74&sr=8-4&tag=thingiverse09-20) I then noticed yeetkus's model was not only too big, it was too sharp. So, I took the files and compared them to other sabers I printed and this new Darksaber replica to get better sense for scale and detail. I updated them and printed these and was very happy with the results. Due to the fact it is smaller, it will use less filament and be more portable. The scale is 81.78% of yeetkus's file. For the colors, I noticed the replica has a glossy, matte, glossy pattern. So I used Matterhackers Build Series PLA black for Hilt 1 & 3 and the blades. For Hilt 2 I used Carbon fiber infused PLA to give it that matte look. For the blades, I posted the print-in-place file in addition to the individual files per request. I printed the entire thing on my Ender 3 and I included the gcodes I used. For the blade I made the print-in-place version and it came out great except for piece 1, so I just reprinted piece 1 and it worked.

To assemble, just follow yeetkus's instructions in his video (go to the remixed from section of this thing). I just used a krazy glue and it's working great. For the rectangle details, just take a small dab of krazy glue and place the detail using the clippers that come with an ender 3. I print on glass, so the bottom is more reflective than the top, because of this I glued the details on upside down to give it a cooler look.

IMPORTANT: The designer made the dimensions of the chamber the same as the dimensions of the opening, this means the blade can (and will) fall out. I didn't change this because I like being able to remove the blade in the event I want to replace it for repairs or color change etc. But at the same time I don't want it to fall out. So as a good solution I cut a small strip of Velcro and placed it on the top of the opening. This is a good solution because I can just take off the Velcro if I need to take out the blade. I am going to keep playing around with the placement to optimize the experience and I will update this if and/or when I come up with a better solution. I included a picture of it above.
FOR V3:This is not as much an issue on the V3, but over time with use it will come out and the velcro option will work the same.

The beauty of 3D printing is you can do whatever you want however you want. This is just a more scaled version and slightly modified version of yeetkus's design and it has worked for me. I hope this helps anyone else wanting a more accurately scaled version of the Darksaber.

VERSION 3 UPDATE: Just finished printing and testing. It came out great and I have uploaded the V3! I beveled some edges and shortened Hilt 3 to allow for a longer blade. I also realized the lines on Hilt 2 need to stick out so I fixed that. Thank you everyone who commented and gave me ideas! I hope you enjoy these and of course:

Happy Printing!