Twin can lamp

The twin can table lamp is a modern design based on two cylinder (or cans) stacked upon each other. 

I wanted the inside of the lamp to be white (or any other light color) and printing  the shade with separate colors using an MMU or AMS isn't an option for me because of waste and very long printing times. So I designed it with two separate shades where the outer shade slides over the inner shade. Since the outer shade is removable you can swap it at any time for other colors. 

You can also choose between a diffuser or a louver for the top end of the lamp and there is an optional lower diffuser.

Dimensions: 228mm x 124mm 

Design goals

• Inner shade in white in order to reflect the light bulb as much as possible. 
• Light bulb recessed a distance vertically into the foot in order to limit the overall height of the lamp.
• No visible arms connecting the foot to the shade. 

These goals means that this lamp is not necessarily the most efficient lamp from a 3D printing perspective. It requires a fair bit of filament since there are two shades needed and there are also supports needed on one of the parts. However, I believe this to be a good compromise considering the results. The amount of filament used provides a nice weight to the lamp and the supports needed are not extensive.

Hardware needed

You will need a E14 lamp holder kit with a screw collar. Check the measurements before printing.

The lamp cable should be a regular 2 core cable  in order to fit snugly in the cable groove on the bottom of the foot.
 

Maximum width for the body of the lamp holder is 30 mm and 45 mm for the screw collar.

*** Please note that this model is only suitable for LED-bulbs up to 4W ***

Print instructions

Test models

The inner shade is supposed to fit quite snugly in the foot. If you are not sure about the precision of your printer, print the two test models first. 

Filament choice 

I have printed this in PLA and haven't had any issues with heat deforming the plastic. The bulbs I am using are completely comfortable to touch when lit so there should not be any problems. But your milage might vary, especially when using the upper diffuser which will not let through hot air upwards. So check that heat doesn't accumulate when the lamp has been on for a few hours.

Make sure that you use good quality filaments that are as opaque as possible, especially for the outer shade. I have found that cheaper filaments, while still having great printing properties, can contain less pigment, therefore being a bit more translucent. You do not want the light to bleed through the shades, it will not be a good look since the shades are not printed in vase mode.

Orientation 

The louver, both diffusers and outer shade must be printed upside down. Check the outer shade twice since it has a lip on the top that is not very noticeable in the slicer, but this lip needs to be placed on the print bed.

There isn't a whole lot of area in contact with the bed so I also placed mouse ears on the inner edges of the outer shade. 

• Layer height
  I have printed this with an 0.6mm nozzle and 0.25mm layer height resulting in an excellent finish. 
  
  When printing the diffuser, lower the layer height to 0.15mm and use the concentric bottom layer pattern for better results. 
   
• Perimeters
  If printing with 0.4mm nozzle, make sure that there are not any infill generated on any of the two shade models. Bump up the vertical shell perimeters to 3 if necessary.
  
  When printing with 0.6mm nozzle, slice and double check there's no infill on the inner shade.
   
• Infill
  I printed with 15% cubic infill which gave a nice heft to the foot.
   
• Supports
  The only support needed anywhere are the flanges on the foot. I have created a version of the foot with built in support which will print fine with layer height between 0.20-0.25mm. This will create a thin cylinder which is very easy to remove and dispose. I  also printed the built in support model with a 0.4mm layer height which came out just fine, it just required a bit more force in order to remove the support structure. 
  
  If you want to let the slicer create the support, use paint on supports on the foot model without built in supports.