This is a remote lever for a suspension fork for use with road bike drop handlebars. I presume it could also be used for rear suspensions too.

Like the dropper remotes it is based on, it provides the rider access to the controls from either the hood of the brake lever, or the curve of the drops. This is such a remix that I used the same basic files, so I needed to mirror all the parts to make them work on the right hand side of the bars.

This particular design has a latch to hold the lever in two positions, besides fully released. Press the button on the side to release the lever to the full slack position. Total cable travel is about 24mm.

In addition to needing a shifter/brake lever clamp and 608 bearing like the designs this is remixed from, you will also need a small ~1" safety pin to use as the spring for the latch. The safety pin might be left over from running events where the number is pinned to a shirt. Pry apart the sheet metal of the head to get to just the wire spring. Bend the pointed side in half, insert the other side into the hole by the latch, and bend over the wire to hold it into place.

Currently, the pictures are of an earlier version that had problems with bar tape clearance, especially when trying to release the latch. The newer version (v9) makes the body of the part a bit thicker, that may make it harder to thread the nut onto the bar clamp. It may be necessary to thread the nut onto the bar clamp with the body and the lever sandwiched between the two, then slide that whole unit onto the bar. Along with modifications to inset the latch, this should get another 3 or 4mm of clearance for bar tape.

This has not been tested on the road or trail yet. But with at least a slightly earlier version now installed on my bike, I can start riding it again.
Update: works well from the hoods, but interferes with the grip in the drops. I was worried about it interfering with my fingers if it's lower down, but considering it's on the inside of the bar, my fingers will get a decent amount of wrap around the bar, so I'll redesign this to sit lower on the bar, not nestled right up against the brake hoods. I want to angle the housing entry more towards the bar so my thumb doesn't have to wrap around it so far. I will probably work on the dropper remote first, since there will be fewer other things to compensate for after I change the cable housing entry angle.
Update 2: This bar clamp places the housing too far from the bars to make placement lower on the drops feasible. Instead, I've slid the clamp up, underneath the brake lever. It still interferes a little with my hand placement, but I'm rationalizing that since I'm not in the drops that often, it's a fine compromise to make, especially since it works so well from the hoods. Also, with a lower bar placement, my hands are not so high up on the drops.

Again, this part is designed with Autodesk Fusion 360, files at: https://a360.co/2LABbIY

High, to prevent the body from being crushed by the clamp

It is difficult to get a latch to work with stairstepped filament. Orient the pawl on edge so the grain of the filament is aligned with the direction the pulley slides underneath it. See picture for general orientation of parts.

Needless to say, supports are needed for the bigger, unbridged overhangs.