Update 1: I added a cooling fan to the extruder and finally got the Z probe calibrated and working as expected. I have the new controller and firmware working and I am running my first "real" print job tonight.

When the Solidoodle company went out of business, I had to make a lot of replacement parts. Right after I purchased it, something would break. I'd fix that. Then something else would break and I'd fix that. This went on for about a year. One of the chief issues was the print volume was reduced due to fans and table alignment. The second issue was warp-age caused by the 100 x 100mm pad under the aluminum bed.

I modified the printer to have a bowden extruder system, a 200mmx200mm heated bed. I moved the controller board to the outside and added a heated bed controller. This allowed me to reduce the number of fans and increase the print volume where it needed to be.

I also changed the firmware to the new Marlin firmware and calibrated it. I will post the firmware and files shortly.

Work in Progress:
Lately, the controller board has been freezing for no reason I can find. I purchased a $50 MKS Gen 1.4 (Ramps 1.4) controller and graphic LCD. I am waiting on the proper connectors to wire that in as a replacement. It does allow dual extruders, so I am considering this modification as well.

Solidoodle

Solidoodle 4

No

Yes

.2

20-30%

30% on all boxes; 20% on brackets; and 50% on carriages

Supports (light/low) as needed

In the redesign, I have gone through several incremental design changes. Initially, I just added the E3D extruder with a bowden system. That lasted about 1 spool and the X-Carriage failed. After several redesigns using other people's components, I decided to create my own mounting system to accommodate a Z-Probe. This design will probably evolve when I have more time.

If necessary, upgrade to the Lawsy X-Carriage assembly.

Lawsy carriage system; and X-Mod (You will need the X-Mod for a solidoodle 4 for the X-Endstop.

Advice:

1. Print several and get additional bearings and rods. That way you can swap the X-Carriage when it fails more easily.

2. Use a small gear puller to remove rods from X-Carriage. I used a plumbers extractor for faucets because it is more flexible (and more than once forgot to put the bearing on first).

Lawsy - X Mod
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:682970

Solidoodle Replacement Carriages
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:104059

Hotend J-head All Metal Wade E3D V6 Direct extruder
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hotend-J-head-All-Metal-Wade-E3D-V6-Direct-extruder-For-Makerbot-Reprap-printer-/131649256083?var=&hash=item1ea6e83a93:m:meGWYolNxeWb_ZPs4EVJPfA

12pcs LM8UU 8mm Linear Ball Bearing Bushing new
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12pcs-LM8UU-8mm-Linear-Ball-Bearing-Bushing-new-/371674274765?hash=item5689835bcd:g:RZ0AAOSwbYZXeyjB

I maintain a stock of M3 and M4 screws, nuts and washers. (Actual mileage may vary) It is recommended that you have an assortment of sizes. (When I have time, I will count and provide a BOM for them).

http://www.instructables.com/id/Enable-Auto-Leveling-for-your-3D-Printer-Marlin-Fi/