Summary

There's a story behind this. I work with 5 other people in the type of 24/7 job where the lights are never off and the chair is never empty, no matter what's happening in our personal lives or the outside world. One day, the person on watch had the sort of thing come up that couldn't be ignored or rescheduled, and sent a group text to the rest of us asking if someone was available for relief. Before the rest of us had even seen the text, one of our other partners was walking into the building, gearing up to get report and take over. She always does this, getting out there as a relief goalie every single time anybody needs anything. She happens to be a blonde Ukrainian woman, and she's beautiful, feminine, and tough as nails. The joke was going around that "she's our very own superhero" and I got the notion to ask chatGPT to make me a picture of "Captain America, but for the Ukraine." Dozens of iterations later I got a blonde female that looked about right. STL Buddy took the photo and created a model, and then a couple days of manually sculpting, editing, and coloring in Blender produced the final model. (note: You guys are getting the generic one, it doesn't really look like her. For the one we presented at the office, I spent another few days grafting her actual face on the statue, but that one's not for the public).

Several files are included, they are all the same just in different format. These all open and print correctly from Bambu Studio, but I have only tested with that software, YMMV.

.3mf file will import with correct orientation and retained color
.stl doesn't store color data, it is just a mesh
.obj file will import with correct color but will need to be reoriented

• Note that .obj stores its color data in the associated .mtl file. Both files need to be in the same folder in order to import properly. Don't change the filenames.

Regardless of how you get the model into the slicer, I recommend painting on some additional support at the bottom of the shield. Bambu Studio will put supports there automatically, but not enough. Frustrating to get 8 hours into a 1.5-day print and have it fail because the shield starts wobbling and knocks the support off the plate. There's a photo in the gallery of where I manually added more support, and it prints well like this, just don't thin out your supports too much.

It's probably worth printing one in a bulk single color to check your settings and supports before you commit to a long AMS build.

Speaking of AMS - this model has 6 colors. This can be done on a 4-color AMS because there are never more than 4 colors on a single layer. Once the gray of the rocky base finishes, you never need it again. Once the black behind the knees finishes, you don't need it again until the shoulders. Insert a pause somewhere around the thighs, and replace the gray spool with skin color, and the black spool for brown. Then you have the 4 colors you need for the utility belt and hand section. Insert another pause after the brown is finished, and replace the brown for black again, and you'll have the 4 colors you need to finish the model. Blue and yellow stay in the mix the entire time.

Check out https://youtu.be/29jMRhvcu-U?si=uUR4abtlqOgvIWAj for a rundown on how to do this.

This model generates a TON of purge/poop/waste. If I just slice it and hit "go" with the default prime tower and the automatic calculated flush volumes, the slicer calculates the model/supports to be 65 grams, the tower is 65 grams, and flush volume of 270 grams! That works out to about 16% of the total filament used goes to the model and 84% goes to waste.

You're welcome to do that if you want. Personally, I have printed out some calibration cards to tweak my flush volumes, printed 3 copies on the same plate to maximize model-vs-flush volume, and also added a bunch of flush objects that will get painted anyway. Anything to cut down on poop waste. There are lots of guides out there.