WORK IN PROGRESS, USE AT OWN RISK

SAFETY DISCLAIMER

I do not take any responsibility for damages and fires caused by this design. Please apply adequate safety precautions and don't let your printer run unattended while the heating is on.

Description

I don't like changing things in a destructive way to change and enhance them. I got my inspiration from Asphyth (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3765610) who came up with a brilliant design extending the cover to add filtration.

This is a modification to allow for ventilating and heating the build chamber. I also suggest to close the Z axis gap with this design (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3779881) from RapidMonster.

The heating makes printing with some resins easier and yields better results, e.g. Siraya Tech Blu.

This thing includes the Fusion 360 source file. Feel free to experiment and improve the design or just use the printer model as a start for your own thing. Would be nice if you would let me know what you made out of it.

WARNINGS

• This thing was not tested very much if at all.
• First tests we're very satisfying regarding getting rid of the smell. Could be the draw from the ventilator being to small, the PLA not being airtight or the need for TPU gaskets between the printer base, the extension and the cover.
• Up to now I only activated the heater manually for only 2 or 3 minutes. The temperature raised sufficiently fast but the top of the case was quite hot on the OUTSIDE (45+ C). I'm not sure if it is safely usable as it is. Maybe the air has to be ventilated on the inside from the top. I would not recommend running it unsupervised and without checking the temperature of the case.
• UPDATE: I applied Kapton tape on the inside of the upper corner of the case on three sides (top, back and right side). This seems to help a little to keep the case from getting hot so fast. I had the heating on for about 7 minutes and the case reached a maximum of 50C on the outside.
• The DHT11 might not be the best choice as a member of the Elegoo Mars Facebook group pointed out. Will investigate further...

How I Use It

• The included hose adapter is designed for a 100mm exhaust hose as used for dryers over here.
• Use M3 screws and nuts to attach the hose adapter and filter.
• I currently use simple paper towels as filters for the intakes.
• I have a 3 meter exhaust hose with a fan at the window end (https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00MNJDNQY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00). It's a 12V 10,1W 120x120x38mm 234,4m³/h 48dBA Sunon MEC0381V1-A99 fan.
• I use this heater (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32960108305.html) from AliExpress but it should also be available from Amazon.
• I use a Sonoff Basic (https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&SearchText=sonoff+basic) for switching the heater on and off.
• I use a DHT11 sensor connected to the Sonoff to measure the build chamber temperature. I might change this because it seems a little unprecise for my needs.
• I run the Tasmota firmware (https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota) on the Sonoff.
• I will use Node Red (https://nodered.org/) to control the temperature in the build chamber by switching the heater based on the build chamber temperature.
• The cable guide is designed for a typical power cable along with a 3-wire dupont cable for sensor. It might not fit for your needs.

How to Print

• The heater holder is a very bad design which nearly kept me from posting it here.
• It needs lots of supports which I wasn't a fan of until I switched from PrusaSlicer aka Slic3r to Cura. Cura has much better supports at least for what I tried.
• I did not take care of the part orientation when uploading the STLs.
• I printed the cable guide in TPU.