Update 01/13/2026
V1.2 Has been released. This updated adds a tad bit more room in the bearing pockets. At times, if the case was too tight, the paddles would start binding up. Also, there has been a locating dowel that was added towards the front of the top to prevent any unwanted lateral movement of the front have of the case. The 3.5mm jack receptacle has been redesigned to allow more consistent and cleaner prints. I found that in V1, if this part of the print warps, it can make fitting the top of the case difficult. V1.2 also offers a secondary top piece that is compatible with commonly found M2x15mm standoffs. And lastly, I also added my makers mark to the top portion of the case.

For as long as I started operating CW in ham radio, I've wanted to created a key to add to the community. Well, I think I finally landed on a version that is easy to print, smooth to operate, and small enough to keep the spirit of portability alive. To build one of these paddles, you'll need the following components:

• 4-Bearings: https://a.co/d/5xR4NSA
• 1-16mm M2 standoff: https://a.co/d/5XldLTY - OR - M2X15mm standoffs are now compatible with the correct file: https://a.co/d/824YEAN
• 3-M2 threaded inserts for plastic: https://a.co/d/aPJKO8l
• 3-M2x8mm Button head screws: https://a.co/d/1pRfv7j
• 1-3.5mm jack: https://a.co/d/dvxvsuT
• 5-N52 0.4 × 0.15 Inch (10mm x 4mm) neodymium magnets: https://a.co/d/5mujPtW
• 4-M2x8mm set screws: https://a.co/d/1JsqO9J
• 1-M3 Eyelet terminal: https://a.co/d/hFmMl7U
• 26-30awg enamel coated magnetic wire: https://a.co/d/6w0NUFV (I found that the individual strands from a 10-12awg cable also seem to work very well if you do not have this size wire readily available.)

Tools required:

• Soldering Iron
• Flush cut wire cutters
• Pliers
• M1.5 tool bit
• M0.9 tool bit
• A 3D printer (or a friend with a 3D printer)

Instructions:

• When assembling the components, I recommend beginning with installing the inserts on the top of the key. I like to install the 2 back inserts about 90% of the way with a soldering iron, and then turn the top around and press it flat against a flat surface. This ensures the inserts are installed and aligned as flat as possible to make assembly easier. With the center insert in the front (used to anchor the standoff to the top) I get it 90% installed with the soldering iron, then finish pressing in the insert with the something flat like the top of a x-acto blade holder (whatever you can fit that is flat to help get the insert square). Install the M2x16mm standoff to the top and ensure it is straight. Some finesse may be required to get it aligned.

• Moving onto the base, install the 3.5mm jack to the base, center tab towards the bottom and aligned with the wire canal that is in the base. Install a M2 screw where the wire terminal will be placed and secure it with another standoff to aid in soldering. Cut a wire to length between the center terminal of the 3.5mm jack and the wire terminal. This will be the ground of the key. Remove the standoff once the terminal has been soldered in place.

• At this point, you can install all 4 bearing into their respective slots in the top and base of the key. At this time, also install the magnets into the paddles. The tolerance is tight, so no super glue is needed to keep it in place. You can use some if you feel the need to do so.

• When installing the wire into the paddles, there is a hole in both the top and bottom of the paddle. This allows one design for both sides. Ensure that you are feeding the wire through the top of the right and left paddles. I like to fit an M2 button head screw here to start the threads, usually fully seating the screw and removing it, replacing it with the grub screw. Give the wire a slight tug once installing the grub screw to ensure the wire is properly secured to the paddle. These are small, and they do like to strip. Extra care and patience is critical here so you don't strip the screw. Once you have both paddles assembled, one at a time, seat the paddle to the base bearing and solder the wire to the jack. Cut off any excess wire and proceed to the next paddle. Don't make these connections too tight or it will affect the tension force of each paddle. I like to put 2-3 loops on the wire right behind the paddle to allow more give in the wire in case my connection is too tight. I make these loops using the M1.5 tool bit.

• Once both paddles are soldered to the base, the hard part is done! Now it is time to assemble the two halfs of the paddle together. Some finesse may be required to align the paddles to the top bearings. Don't force this. The top should gradually sink into the base and sit flush. Make sure the wire is not getting pinched between the two halves of the paddle.

• Install the 3-M2 screws to secure both halves together. These should be finger tight, don't crank down on them or it will affect the tension on the paddles. The standoff needs to make contact with the wire terminal, so ensure this screw is nice and snug.

• Install the grub screw on each side of the top cover and adjust the stop point of your paddles. Adjusting the grub screws in the paddles as necessary to get the desired spacing and stop points in the paddles.

• Finally, install the 3 magnets on the base. Ensure these are all the same polarity. And your Zippy paddle is ready to go!

Hoping you enjoy the paddle as much as I have. And hope to hear you on the air with it!

73 de K8CES