Summary

This is a build for a simple, durable Halo 4 (?) energy sword designed in Autodesk Fusion.

This design is completely from scratch, but MoeSizzlac's Energy Sword (https://www.moesizzlac.com/projects-HaloSword2.php) was a huge inspiration. Thanks Moe for being one of the most outstanding Halo creators out there!

Section 1: Electronics
The following non-printables were used for this project:

• 2M 5V COB Light Strip (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXWRTNBL?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_13&th=1)
• Anker 5k mAh Portable Charger (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CU1EC6Y?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_12)
• Small on/off switch (Cannibalized from a motor controller - size is about 12x4x7mm)
• USB C to Micro SD adapter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VBV1PY5?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_5)
• USB to DC adapter (any cord that can split a USB connection into Red-Black wires works)
  Wiring is pretty simple. Each side of the blade uses just less than half of the 2M LED strip, which you can solder a 5V and ground wire to. Connect the wires from each strip and consolidate them into one 5v and one GND wire. From there, you can wire it to the USB to DC wires with the switch somewhere in the middle. The USB C to Micro SD adapter is used so that the Power Bank can be charged without having to open the handle.

Section 2: The Handle
The handle holds all of the electronics except for the LEDs. Its a tight fit, but its pretty self-explanatory where everything goes. The two sides of the handles are held together by 6 #6x5/8 Wood Screws (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CHY7JT9N?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1). There's probably better ways to connect the two sides and more details that could be added to the handle, but its beyond my level for 3d modeling skills. There's a challenge to any would-be remixers!

Section 3: The Blade
The blade has 3 different parts: The Bottom Surface, the Top Surface, and the Support Beams. The bottom and top surfaces are built to fit onto each other easily and be adhered together with glue. The support beams are placed on the inside of the blade. The inner support beams also have the LED strips attached to them.

Section 4: Slicing
The models for the blade and support beams are provided in full, which is a size that would struggle to fit on even the largest of print beds. IN ORDER TO PROPERLY UTILIZE THE SUPPORT BEAMS, PLEASE CONSIDER THE FOLLOWING: When cutting the blade surfaces into printable pieces, make sure you DO NOT cut the support beams in the same locations as the blade surfaces. The support beams are designed to stretch across where the blades have been cut to provide structure in what will be the weakest sections of the blade. See the attached photos for an example of a correctly placed cut.

Section 5: Printing
Printing the handle is pretty self explanatory; although it required more support material, I prefered to print them vertically to prioritize a smooth finish. The blades and blade support beams are printed with translucent PTEG. When I played around with some settings, I really liked the look that Bambu's "lightning" infill gives the pieces. Also to note, you most likely going to print with a large amount of surface area on the build plate. This can cause problems, especially with PTEG, so make sure you've got your settings locked in before printing.

Section 6: Assembly
Start by lining up all of the bottom surface pieces on a flat surface (without the handle). Begin gluing in the support beams on the inside of the bottom surface with Cyanoacrylate Adhesive. Once cured, attach one side of the handle to the mounting points on the bottom surface. Assemble the electronics and use adhesive to attach the LED strips to the inside support beams. Next, begin adhering the top surface pieces, which should fit directly on top of the bottom surface pieces. Attach the other side of the handle and screw it in, careful not to disrupt and connections.

If you have any questions, leave a comment below. Thank you!