update: i added a clock housing version 2 file that made the thickness from the top to the back 5mm thick instead of 10mm so that the clock mechanism listed below should fit perfectly and no cutting should be needed except for drilling the hole. also i forgot to mention that i had to scale down the original design of alice cooper in cura so that it would fit on my printer and so that i could build a housing that it would fit inside. in cura i loaded both the housing and the alice cooper face at the same time then scaled the face down until it fit inside which i also used uniformed scaling so when i changed 1 number it kept the other axis uniformed. after checking the box for uniformed scaling then change the X to 199mm and then the y will automatically change and it will fit inside the housing and on the printer. also afterwards i unchecked the box and then changed the z axis to 2mm so that it would make the alice cooper file thicker and less likely to break while handling. If you are using a 220x220 build plate and are using cura then you wont be able to use a skirt or a very wide brim or it wont fit. i just used a brim with 2 lines and 0 spacing between the object and the brim.

This is just my add to the original clock piece. it is the housing and a back cover. i ended up just adjusting the scale of the original design so that it would fit snug into the housing then i just drilled a hole into the clock housing to insert the clock mechanism into. also the clock back has 3 extruded circles so you can attach Velcro to it and to the back of the clock so you can easily remove the back if needed to change battery. i printed the housing with 15 percent infill and i used 1mm walls so it was thick enough to cut into it and recess the clock mechanism being the shaft ended up not being long enough to go all the way through and attach the dials. the cutting can be avoided by ordering one with a longer shaft if you can find one. i designed the clock housing from the back of it to the top where the shaft goes through to be 10mm thick so if you print the alice cooper design 2mm thick then the shaft needs to be at least 12mm long so that it will stick completely through and you dont have to make any cuts besides drilling the 1 hole. i just decided to make it work so i didnt have to waste the print.

Link for the clock mechanism
https://www.amazon.com/EMOON-Ticking-Mechanism-Movement-Replacement/dp/B0899R3TRR/ref=sr_1_49_sspa?crid=UAA72P52S8VG&dchild=1&keywords=clock+mechanism&qid=1603501562&sprefix=clock+me%2Caps%2C335&sr=8-49-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFSMlE3U0EzWTJVTFEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2Njg1NDQzVDZaSERCVEhOWEFNJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0Mzk4MDExRDRRVVZZVDhRVDJLJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmX25leHQmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJl.

Creality

Ender 3 Pro

No

Yes

0.16

15%

I used 2mm height with 1mm walls. also used supports and printed it face down to save on materials being it would take a lot of material for supports if it was printed with the face facing up. also used a brim on the housing and back only of just 2 lines and 0 spacing. the alice cooper face i didnt use any brim at all and just used a 1 line skirt to purge my nozzle.