Load bearing plate to evenly distribute the weight of Seestar S50 when using in EQ mode. Tested left and right movement, and is functional.

You will need TPU 95A for the SSOuterRingTPU and SSInnerRingTPU. For all other parts, PLA, PLA+, PETG is needed

Items Required beyond the printed parts:
A couple of Rotary tool drum sander drums.
3ea - #4 x 1/2" or 3/4" wood screws, see note below (*)
1ea - 3/8"-16 x 2" hex head bolt
1 of each - 3/8" flat and split washer
24ea - 11mm SS bearing balls
1 - Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer Ball Head Adapter. Remove the bolt attached to it. Save parts if you want to convert it back.
1 - Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer Equatorial Wedge Base, or another Wedge that will accept the Vixen style Ball Head Adapter.

Bambulabs

Bambu P1P

See note

SunLu/doesn't matter

Any

Print both SSPlateBottom and SSPlateside with bearing race up. Use auto orientate.
You can trial and error your own settings, but for those two I used:

SSPlateBottom, SSPlateSide, and SS50BaseSpacer.
Fine setting
Supports: No. You might want to run support on plate only for the SSPlateBottom and use tree so it will fill in the indent for the SSBaseBot to fit in. It will need a slight sanding and cleaning.
Ironing: Yes, and or No. The pictures of the SSPlateBottom and SSPlateSide are with ironing but I think my filament was wet and I ran the prototype at .28 so it looks ugly in the pictures. Run at .20 or smaller.
Walls: 4-5. You want it beefy around the screw holes
Top and Bottom layers: 4-5. Try less if you want
Infill density: 20%
Use Archimedean pattern for top on both parts when they have been auto orientated with race up for a cleaner print.

SSBaseBot
Auto orientate but make sure the wider extrusion is down
Use fine or Optimal
Supports: Yes
Wall loop: 4
Top and Bottom layer: 5
Infill density 40%: Honeycomb pattern. Look at this part like it is the load bearing wall in a house even though the bearings should be assisting with that load.

SS50HolderBall
This needs to be a clean precise print. Use fine. Run slower speed. This should be 100% infill. Needs to be as solid as possible.

The SSInnerRingTPU_BBL3MF and SSOuterRingTPU_BBL3MF will require TPU 95A. You need to print two of each and it is better to print all four one at a time, not all at once.

Taking the ball bearings listed below, force/pop/snap the bearings into the SS50HolderBall. They should snap in fairly easy, but not pop out. Make sure the balls turn freely in their hole, and not fall out. If they do not move freely around in the hole, push the ball in and out both sides a few times, or remove the ball and lightly sand the inner wall of hole for the ball that is to tight. Don't sand too much because each hole has a concave that holds the ball in. I had to work 7 of 24 in and out until I got them to move freely. You can rub with some light oil before, or after.

Use the sanding drum noted below to smooth out the bearing race of both the SSPlatebottom and SS50Plateside. The races need to be decently smooth but the TPU rings now hold the bearing on a smooth TPU surface.

The SSInnerRingTPU_BBL3MF and SSOuterRingTPU_BBL3MF will require TPU 95A. You need to print two of each and it is better to print all four one at a time.

You will need to clean the slots on the PlateBottom and PlateSide for the TPU rings with light sandpaper. Taking the the inner ring, lay one each it in the two plates with two slots. The ring should push in nicely, try to be even as possible. Then take a flat edge of whatever and give a little more of push on the ring so it seats all the way in. Repeat with the out slots on the two plates.

Items Required beyond the printed parts:
A couple of Rotary tool drum sander drums.
3ea - #4 x 1/2" or 3/4" wood screws, see note below (*)
1ea - 3/8"-16 x 2" hex head bolt
1 of each - 3/8" flat and split washer
24ea - 11mm SS bearing balls
1 - Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer Ball Head Adapter. Remove the bolt attached to it. Save parts if you want to convert it back.
1 - Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer Equatorial Wedge Base, or another Wedge that will accept the Vixen style Ball Head Adapter.

Words of caution.
(*) To prevent cross threading, remove a screw (not the battery cover screws) from the bottom and take it with you to the store when purchasing the #4 wood screws and make sure the threads are identical to the screw removed from the SS. Most likely the SS is only plastic where the OEM screws are threaded into and it can be easily ruined if the wrong screws are used. 3/4" screws will work but you need to cut them down to about 5/8 of an inch.

Grind, nip, sand, whatever method you choose, and flatten tips off the #4 Woods Screws. Test that the screws by screwing into the original hole without resistance. If they resist, DO NOT keep screwing to prevent cross threading of OEM thread hole. The screw may be wrong. Do not proceed because I do not want you screwing up your SS.

ASSEMBLY:
REMOVE three screws only from the SS (10AssmRemovScrews). Do not throw them out. Store in a safe place where you will remember where they were put. The middle on the reset button side, and the two outer up by the battery compartment.

1. Lay the SS50BaseSpacer (11AttBaseSpace) down with the reset button hole over the reset button. If you don't, it will press the reset. You won't be able to reset unless you modify a hole through all parts.

2. Lay the SSPlateSide_BBL3MF_Update and place the modified wood screws in the holes you removed the OEM screws from. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Just snug them in.

3½. You may need to clean the slots on the PlateBottom and PlateSide for the TPU rings with light sandpaper. Taking one inner, and one outer TPU ring, lay one ring of each in both of the plates with two slots. Evenly push each ring in with your finger. The ring should push in nicely, try to be even as possible. Then take a flat edge of whatever, I used the butt end of my deburring tool, and give a little more of push on the ring so it seats all the way in, all the way around.

1. Lay the assembled SS50HolderBall on the attached SS50BaseSpacer and SSPlateSide_BBL3MF_Update.

2. Lay the SSPlateBottom_BBL3MF_Updated on the SSPlateSide_BBL3MF_Update.

3. Lay, with the wider extruded round side of the SS50Basebot (15AttBaseBot) onto the SSPlateBottom_BBL3MF_Updated.

4. Bolt, split washer first, flat washer next, put through the hole of the Ball head Adapter. Holding the Ball head adapter parallel with the plates, finger tighten the bolt into the Seestar. Tighten the bolt, while holding the adapter in position. Do not crank (do not over tighten) the bolt down. Just tighten. NOTE: I am not responsible for you breaking your SS for torquing the * out of the bolt.

5. The plate will not move freely once tightened. Turn on your Seestar and connect. Go to Scenery mode and start to move your Seestar left and right. It should move both ways quietly with no grinding noises. If it doesn't move, STOP! If it grinds, STOP! If either of those happen, you may need to print a 42mm OD, 13mm, .5-1mm thick spacer to place between the SS mount plate and the SSPlateBottom_BBL3MF_Updated but I have tested this new update and there is more than enough clearance.