Summary

First off, I've uploaded both STEP and Fusion 360 files, so you can jump in and delete features you don't need, or made adjustments for your chosen hardware, or add to it. I'd LOVE to see some remixes posted, because I'm SURE that I did not design the best possible box.

OK, so, every time I had an issue with the Filastruder that required me to open it up (such as having to rotate the pipe after it moved again), I was reminded how frustratingly tight it is in there, and how scary it is to have all those wires taking up space around the connection between the motor and the auger. I vowed that, should I need to take it apart again, I would take all the electrical out of their case and into its own, with quick connectors between the two. I also wanted to add some more control, such as turning the fans on/off, and a speed control, if not for the main motor, then for the auger assisted hopper I use on my Filastruder.

That day came, and I've completed this project to my satisfaction. I used parts I had on hand, so can't really provide a BOM to get the same stuff. I had planned to use panel mount connections for all the stuff, but then I realized that some people might want it on the side, or the bottom, or whatever, so decided to just put holes in and pass through cables with the connectors that I already had at the ends. Dongles, so to speak. Pigtails? Anyway... you can use panel mount jacks for stuff and just drill out those holes to the needed size, or edit the CAD files I provided. If you want, you can also just print the case as is, and install the stock Filastruder electronics into this with the wires just going to the Filastruder, though it might be awkward to service either one of them with the other part connected by wires. Just use whatever you have or can get. I'm a big fan of DC barrel plugs and jacks, so that's what I'm using for everything. I'm using a big one for the heater coil connector, to make sure I don't mix that one up with something else.

As you can see, it's got lettering as a printed part. I used my MMU2 to do it on my Prusa machine, but this could also be done by just leaving out the lettering STLs, and doing a color change on the first solid layer above the lettering, so you can have the face in one color, and the case and lettering are a contrasting color. You can also print the letters separately and glue them in, or just print it without the letters in one color, maybe color them in if the embossed lettering is not clear. I included a 3mf file for Prusa Slicer with the box and lettering ready to go for an MMU2 print.

The side panel is separate so that you can do that with a multi material printer as well, without having to do color changes for so many layers going up the side of the box, though you can certainly do that if you want to.

Note that the small knobs are not strictly necessary. You shouldn't need to adjust either of those settings once you get your Filastruder up and running. But, it's nice to have them rather than try to get a screwdriver into the tiny slot in the pot. They don't have much to hold onto, and the pots really aren't very strong, so it's probably best to print one and use it to make adjustments, but otherwise leave it off to prevent them from being bumped and possibly messing up the stall board.

Feedback and comments are welcome. And again, remixes are also welcome.