My goals with this were:

• Printable with no supports.
• Maximize room inside for cables.
• Ports out the front, as I couldn't understand how people routed the cables in more enclosed designs.
• Access to the SD card slot does not require removing the Pi.
• Supports the Pi cam ribbon cable.

Printing

Face down. Warping probably won't result in a useless part, but you may have a larger gap when the drawer is shut.

Materials

• 4x M2.7x6-10 self-tapping screws; other similarly-sized screws may work. The holes in the Pi PCB are approximately 2.5 mm in diameter.
• [Optional] 30 mm fan
• [Optional] Screws to go through the case and fan, up to M3 in diameter.
• [Optional] Matching nuts
• [Optional] Cable Matters keystone jack 180030x5-BLK
• [Optional] 6" Ethernet patch cable

Assembly

Pi screws into the standoffs. I used M2.7x10 self-tapping screws as I have a half-height hat, but otherwise a 6-8 mm screw is probably sufficient.

This design won't work if you need to screw into standoffs from below, though modifying the design to support this should be relatively simple.

If you are using a fan, be careful with larger screws as the walls get a little thin. Only 2 screws are really necessary.

This is a replacement for the drawer that came with the printer. Do not remove the drawer shell. 

The drawer design is fairly loose, so make sure the side rails are actually going into the slots on the printer or it won't fit.

The keystone jack version requires an additional 33 mm of vertical clearance below the printer.