An issue with the Qidi Q2 is that the internal PTFE filament tube rubs against the underside of the glass lid. Even worse, it scrapes across the screw heads which hold the lid's handle in place. A common solution is to print a riser for the glass lid.

The original riser is posted on Qidi's public website created by "QIDI User". It was uploaded to Printables (here) by Studio 507. It has adjustable baffles to vent (cool) the chamber in the case of low-glass-transition filaments such as PLA, PETG, and TPU. It fits great, looks great, and the model's tolerances are excellent.

But even with that riser I was having the PTFE tube rub against the glass lid. Especially after I installed this (incredibly useful) PTFE Clip from LittleApollo! So I decided to make the riser even taller. I extended the height from 33mm to ~50mm. Also, the location of the vent openings seemed a bit low to me so I moved them upwards towards the centerline.

I printed mine in the Q2 itself, with Qidi's PETG Basic filament, using Orca Slicer. Printed with the "0.20mm Standard" profile. PLEASE NOTE that there are two different files to print! They are both needed for the complete riser. It took approximately 210 meters of filament, total.

The standard profiles are fine, but I found improvements using the following changes:

1. Speed: Outer wall speed from 200mm/s to 100m/s.

2. Speed: Disabled "Slow down for curled perimeters"

3. Support: Enabled "Normal (auto)" support

4. Support: Enabled "On build plate only"

5. Support: "Pattern angle" from 0 to 45 degrees

6. Support: "Support/object first layer gap" from 0.2mm to 0.4mm

7. Others: Brim Type: No brim.

8. I also painted a support-exclusion zone underneath the dovetail overhangs.

All of these settings are wrapped up in the included .3mf files! If you prefer to do it yourself, I've also included standard .stl's.

Explanations of those bullet points, for those interested:

1. Reduced VFA's (wavy lines) on the outer surfaces. It was a pretty subtle difference. If I had tuned my printer better, this probably wouldn't matter.

2. This setting causes all sorts of issues with the way Orca processes overhangs and bridges. I've fould I always like it turned off.

3. It needs supports! :)

4. ...but the bridges at the top of the vent openings print just fine without supports, so this is a good way to stop them from being printed.

5. I'm not sure why this defaults to zero, but 45-degrees ensures the bottom model layer crosses over the bridge interface instead of sticking to the entire length of it.

6. My bottom support interface ran into the bottom layer of my model, so this gave a little more space. I changed this setting and #5 (the pattern angle) at the same time. It's possible that with the #5 change the gap would have worked fine.

7. No brim necessary.

8. The overhangs print fine without support, and this saved me from having to pull support material from the slots.

Finally, I would recommend against using PLA if you intend to print with other types of filament in the future. PLA isn't able to handle the higher chamber temperatures required to print most other types...

Thanks for reading! All in all, this has been an excellent addition to my new Q2 :)

If you're interested, here are the other items I'm using for my print setup. I'll be adding more as I go :)