The HUDY tire truer has a little bit of adjustment to the camber of your tire, but not enough for the rubber tires we run on our BRM 1/24 cars.
So i made this thing to fix that.
It has the same geometry as the original part but has a adjustable upper part to fine tune your camber when you are trueing your tires.
You will need a m4x20 cylindric head bolt and some other m4 bolts of your choice ,for the pressure screw you can use the originale finger screw(mine was too short) , has to be around 25 mm long same as the stop screw , depending on your tire size.
The camber screw can be 15mm long , you dont need so much length just enough to move it a couple mm.
It is designed to use 2x 3x6x2.5 flange bearings (slot car size) in the top part and 2x bronze bearings of the same size in the bottom part , if you race BRM cars you have a lot of them or you can put ball bearings in it too.
You use a 3mm axle to hold it in place , around 64mm long , just file a flat spot at the end for the set screw.

27-04-2023
Edit:Made a new version of konus blokBXL(bottom one) , as the previous one had some clearance problems when you tried to true smaller tires.

18-03-25
After a lot of use(and abuse) i have made a reinforced version that uses heated inserts for the thread, plus it is made thicker in some of the weak points.
I use BN1052 m4 heat inserts, google them to get measurements, as i dont know if the one you can buy at Temu or Aliexpress fits.
And i tried printing them in Formfutura volcano pla, the kind you bake after you print it, to anneal it, works great.

And don´t hesitate to comment if you find any problems with the design.

Creality

CR10S PRO

No

Yes

0,2

20

I printed this in PLA but it might be better to print it in a more suitable material fx ASA, but i have not finished my enclosure for my printer yet , so PLA will have to do for now.
I used 4 line sides and 4 line top and bottom to get some strength.

When you are done printing , clean the bearing holes with a 6mm drill bit to fit the bearings and cut the m4 tread in the rest of the holes , only cutting all the way through the pressure screw hole , leave a couple of mm in rest to act as lock for the screws.
Take care when cutting the tread as it gets hot and softens the plastic , do it slowly