I've created a simple adequate pair of door hinges that offer the same benefits of other great hinges that have come before, but reduced down to adequate strength and size to save on print time, material and frustration. I also prefer a more discreet hinge.

You will need:
M3 cap head screws 8mm (six off)
M3 cap head screws 14mm or 16mm (4 off)
M3 nuts (4 off)

Printing:
I used 4 walls and 15% infill with PETG. Use something as strong. This is holding your glass door!

1. Print two "hinge door side" pieces.  The side hinges are identical to avoid confusion.

2. Print one "hinge door top"

3. Print one "hinge door bottom"

4. Print two "link upper" parts

5. Print two "link lower" parts.

6. Print one "plate bottom"

7. Print one "plate top"

To construct the top hinge

1. Press a side hinge and the top door hinge together such that the slot in the side hinge is towards the bottom and the "L" of the top hinge points upwards. They only mesh around one way. Test align with the door and the side screws if you're unsure of orientation. This will attach to the upper screw hole in the side of the case near the top and nearest the front.

2. Slide a "link lower" upwards through the two hinge parts whilst they're pressed together and rotated straight "---oo----"

3. Place a "link upper" on top and screw into place with two M3x8 screws. Longer screws will fit but take more screwing!

To construct the bottom hinge

1. Press a side hinge and the bottom door hinge together such that the slot in the side hinge is towards the bottom and the bottom door hinge fits the gearing. They only mesh around the correct way.

2. Slide the "link lower" upwards through the two hinge parts whilst they're pressed together and rotated straight "--oo----" as before

3. Place a "link upper" on top and screw into place as before.

To fit the hinges

1. Check they will both fit again before you have any glass door to juggle! 

2. Unscrew the two front screws from the side of the printer top and bottom.

3. Attach the top hinge to the printer with an M3x8mm screw into the top hole such that the "L" points upwards. Don't do this up tight just yet as the slot allows some movement.

4. Attach the bottom hinge to the printer with an M3x8mm screw such that the recessed screw holes will face outwards. There are slight recesses on the inside but the outside ones are deeper. Do not tighten the side screw again.

5. Make sure the hinges work and align with the door before you're juggling glass again.

6. Press two nuts into each of the "plate bottom" and "plate top".

7. Remove the door from the printer and retain the rubber grommets from the door if they fall out. Press these back into the glass of the door and don't drop them on a black carpet!

8. Ensure the old top and bottom hinges are removed from the printer and the door.

9. Screw two M3x14mm (or M3x16mm if you lack 14mm) into the top hinge such that they pass through the rubber grommets. I suggest do this with the lid off as you can hold the "top plate" with the nuts on the inner side until the screws hold it firmly against the inner side of the glass. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

10. Screw two M3x14mm (or M4x16mm) into the bottom hinge for the "bottom plate". You may need to juggle glass to make this happen. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

11. Ensure hinges are all straight and then tighten the side screws top and bottom. The door should open and clear the screen without hitting it when the door is all tight and aligned.

I've included a unattached example of my 18-tooth herringbone gear "gear 18 test" with an 8mm axel hole in case you want to use this in any of your projects. It's not required in this pair of hinges.