A featherboard for carpentry, which doesn't require support and comes with knobs and sliding rails in M5 and M6 options.
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A featherboard for carpentry, which doesn't require support and comes with knobs and sliding rails in M5 and M6 options.
- Please pay attention to the variable slanted track/T-shaped track dimensions:Not all desktop saws and/or router tables have the same specifications. I designed the included slides to adapt to my new one.SKIL 10-inch heavy-duty scroll saw with stand - SPT99-11's oblique angle trajectory。
- Selection of the bolt diameter:I provided slides and knobs for both the M5 and M6 bolts/nuts. I chose to use the M5 ones.
- Metric system and imperial system:A Redditor's comment pointed out that Americans might be able to buy metric bolts and nuts at a cheaper price than in the US. Therefore, you might want to consider using approximate metric sizes. A 3/16-inch bolt is slightly smaller than an M5 bolt, but within the 0.24mm tolerance range of an M5 bolt. A 1/4-inch bolt is slightly larger than an M6 bolt, but within the 0.35mm tolerance range of an M6 bolt.The 3/16-inch British standard may be easily used without modification, using the M5 accessories provided.Of course, you can also readjust the size of the bolt holes and nut holes as needed. If I have time, I might try to output an English version. But I can't guarantee it.
- Bolt length:I used a 40mm-long bolt. This is the one I used from LowesThe link to the set of four piecesHowever, please note that unlike the images of partial threads shown on their website, the actual bolts are fully threaded.
- "Bolt downward"I suggest using bolts to mount it upward - insert the bolts into the slide rails and insert the nuts into the knobs. This not only allows you to have more adjustment space for the bolt length, but also eliminates the possibility of the bolt being too long and scratching the inclined rails/slide grooves.
- Slide rail: A thin "sacrificial layer" that was successfully printed:The design of the slide rail uses a 1-mm-thick sacrificial layer, which covers the position where the bolt holes transition from the hexagonal head area to the cylindrical shaft area. You can burn off the thin layer with a soldering iron, cut it off with a craft knife, or even open it with a drill.
- Use a soldering iron to "hot-weld" the bolt into the slide rail.Speaking of the soldering iron, I suggest using it to press the bolt head into the bottom of the slide rail. I did it this way, and the effect was very good. You want this part to have a tight connection, and the part is designed for a tight connection. I screwed the screw in until the hexagonal head was just resting on the hexagonal hole, aligned in the correct direction, and then pressed the hot iron on the bolt head until it slid into place.
- Always take risks based on your own risk tolerance.Although the correct use of a dust shield can make sawing/planing slightly safer, there are always some inherent risks when using a table saw or router table, some of which cannot be completely eliminated just by using auxiliary tools. I am not responsible for any injuries that may occur when using this design.
PS: The knob shown in the photo is from an earlier version
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Print settings
Base:None
Support:None
Resolution:0.3
Fill in:20%
Consumables:IIIID Max PLA
Consumables color:Yellow
Printing Notes:
You want these to be sturdy, so I recommend using 3-4 layers of edge walls for printing. I set my slicing to make my 0.4 nozzle simulate a 0.6 nozzle, so when I print with 3-layer walls, its thickness is equivalent to that of 4.5 normal walls.
Design method:
Designed in SketchUp Pro.
Category:Mechanical tools
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Various modifications of the LowRider 3 CNC:
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