I printed the tama from D30 TPU with 5 walls and 75% infill. I recoment using gyroid infill for the tama because if provides consistent feel in all directions. I got it at the exact same weight as an original tama and with similar grip because the original one was covered with a rubbery paint.
I printed the ken and the cups from wood filled PLA, with 7 walls and 20% infill. This got it 10 grams lighter than an original Kendama but it's close enough. For the tama to spin properly you will need to add a bearing to the rope. Any bearing with 5mm outer diameter and 2mm inner diameter will do. I got the bearing and the rope from here: https://www.contrastmarket.ro/set-ata-kendama-3-buc-cu-rulment/
Because the cups and the ken are made of PLA, they don't have enough friction between them and they will slide off.  To prevent that, you have to coat the surfaces with some rubbery glue (maybe some contact cement) but don't actually mate them until the glue is dried. That should provide adequate friction. If that doesn't work, you can also glue them together after you add the rope.

If you print the tama out of TPU, the hole will have a little too much friction and certain tricks will be harder (eq: spike). You might want to print the slipwall file out of PLA/PETG and glue it on hole opening in order to have less friction.